Thread: Series 3 6 cyl Fuel

Here's hoping.
I also have "Burt" a 4cyl 1970 109" ute cab trayback which has always gone better than "Fergo".
Fergo has lived on the farm for the last eight years and I suspect has always had this problem but putting around the farm hasnt been an issue.

I will report back once I have replaced the diaphragm.

Hi all,
New diaphragm in last night and we are running again! Like turning the other 3 cylinders on!
"So, why don't you drive it to work tomorrow" I thought........ good idea

Halfway to work stop at a intersection and put into neutral. My turn to go and I cant find a gear. None of them. The stick moves left and right through neutral no problem but wont even look at picking a gear. I can feel where the gates are but it wont move up or down to select anything. Engine on/off no difference. Hi/Lo range no difference. I play with it for a minute before I decide I need to move it off the intersection. Bit of a push on we are out of the way (lucky I went to the gym last night). I spent about 15 mins trying to get something - anything!! I could get it home in 2nd if I could just get it........ NUP nothing. no matter what I do it wont select anything.

Wait 45 mins for a tow, the whole time playing with it, gently rocking car, gently trying gears ,not so gently trying gears
Clutch seems to be operating - I can hear the input shaft starting and stopping with the pedal up and down - but I will check it first.
Any other ideas? could it be something in the gear selector housing? Should I rip the box out or is an in situ fix possible?

When you say you can't get any gears, do I understand correctly that the lever will not move any of the selector shafts? If this is the case, it has to be either an issue with the interlock that stops you from engaging more than one gear art a time, or the gear lever is no longer "in the gate", or possibly a selector fork is loose on the selector shaft. All of which can be fixed with the box in place. First step is to remove the floor and transmission tunnel and have a look.

Another possibility is that despite your being certain the clutch is working, it is not - and with the floor out, the gear lever assembly can be removed to open a hole in the top of the bell housing - and you can see whether it is.

Hi John,
It is not moving any of the shafts. The stick freely moves left and right through neutral but will not move forward and back into any of the gears. I was pushing and pulling it quite hard and it didn't even look like going in. I will check the clutch operation however nothing changes with the engine off or running so I dont think that it is the clutch. Also with the engine running when I operate the clutch I can hear the input shaft start and stop.

I will remove the tunnel asap (maybe tonight) and have a quick look. I will have more time tomorrow night if I can't see the issue.

Thanks for your help

That definitely sounds like the interlock, probably triggered by an issue with a selector fork, or possibly something deeper in. Do you have a workshop manual? You will probably have to take the top off the box to see just what the issue is, and you really need the manual for this. Of course, it could just be something obstructing the gearlever, but I can't think how that would work.

Hi guys,
Problem found . You were right John, it was the interlock, caused by a broken spring on the reverse shaft flap. Spring had gotten wedged and was not allowing the reverse shaft to return to its home position activating the interlock. I need to replace the springs, hopefully I can get some tomorrow. Pics attached. Big thanks to John and Rob for their help and advice

Great! an easy fix. Can't say I have ever heard of that particular issue though - I was thinking something like a stick or suchlike in there - I didn't think of the springs.

An easy and cheap fix!! Springs are $1.65 Ea, I will replace both @ $3.30. Tow cost me $120