Jim's s3 109

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Originally Posted by fredd63

That brings back memories. Sold my yellow S3 recently, same colour as yours. The fuel tap you mentioned is for the two tanks. Check which way it works, as from memory it is the larger bottom part of the lever which points to the tank you want to use. Found that out the hard way[bighmmm]

If you decide to remove the ignition switch, mark the wires very carefully, as the location is not intuitive, the colours on the wires will have disappeared, and wiring diagrams bear no resemblance to reality.

cheers
fred

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It's probably my favourite colour for the s3 I'm not touching the paintwork just a good scrub.
I'll definitely suss the tap out before just turning it randomly lol I can imagine. I'll probably only have the passenger tank for a while unless I come across another. I have a decent one in the s1 chassis I picked up recently but I dunno if it fits easy enough it's a different shape. Only downfall is you fill it from the hatch not from the filler on the tub. My pass tanks fills from the hatch so maybe I'll just have 2 like that.
I think I've removed the ignition switch already I'll I know I removed the dash. I'll probably rewire it all anyway for piece of mind and work it out when the times come.
Cheers Jim

Time for a bit of an update...
I picked up a chassis from grey_ghost today thank you very much again it was nice to meet you[emoji106]
Its from an 71 S2a 5door, even though my chassis is in pretty good nick i was thinking of rebuilding my 75 S3 3 door onto it.

I can see a few advantages this way:

Thicker steel walls, mine is the 2 C sections welded together

Completely stripped I can easily get it dipped if i go that way.

Bugger all if any rust, i still have rear x member rust to fix. It has been painted and looked after by someone.

Make for a better frame up restoration altogether. My s3 is pretty much in bits already.

The downfalls and repairs are:

Front crossmember has been checked out for the 6cyl holden. Im guessing it was originally a 4cyl so i may need to move the engine 2 inches back to suit my 6cyl firewall and drivetrain. If thats the case i may try and find a new front crossmember.

Steering arm seems pretty seized may be a pain to remove.

Few dings in the back which i may be able to pull out in spots

I have no idea if any of the brackets are in the same spots.

If anyone has done this before or knows if the chassis are virtually the same some info would be appreciated [emoji106][emoji106]

Ill get some photos up some stage

Cheers Jim

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Originally Posted by LRJim

It's probably my favourite colour for the s3 I'm not touching the paintwork just a good scrub.
I'll definitely suss the tap out before just turning it randomly lol I can imagine. I'll probably only have the passenger tank for a while unless I come across another. I have a decent one in the s1 chassis I picked up recently but I dunno if it fits easy enough it's a different shape. Only downfall is you fill it from the hatch not from the filler on the tub. My pass tanks fills from the hatch so maybe I'll just have 2 like that.
I think I've removed the ignition switch already I'll I know I removed the dash. I'll probably rewire it all anyway for piece of mind and work it out when the times come.
Cheers Jim

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hi jim have a good front cross member here with steering relay jim

Had a bit of a look at the chassis for differences, nothing too different.

Engine and gearbox mounts havnt been cut and moved. I remember GG said it had all been pushed forward to suit the cabstar box, thats why the crossmember has been cut. I may be able to squeeze the xflow in if I choose to go that way.

Since this was 5 door it dosnt have the tailgate rings on the back, i may weld new ones on or go with a safari door.

Fewextra brackets bolted on to suit the 5 door body, all can be removed easy enough.

Im probably gonna keep it painted as is, its in good condition and a good internal clean and paint/treatment is all it really needs.

Got a bit of movement out of the steering relay, could do with some lube.

Spring hangers and rear crossmember are in good usable condition.

While its on the trailer ill take it to the car was and give it a good clean inside and out.

Just need to get some chassis and spring bushes and ill start the reassembly.

Also gotta move a few cars to get it to the garage which will be a feat of its own....its like the castle over here [emoji23][emoji23]

Cheers Jim

Point you need to be aware of is that the legal vehicle identity is that of the chassis, as shown by the number stamped on it. If you rebuild your S3 using this chassis, you may have to get the engine change engineered (but should be no issues), and at least in theory the change in body will also need to be engineered and plated.

There would be more issues building a 2a on a 3 chassis, as there would likely be issues with ADRS re hinges, padded dash etc.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Point you need to be aware of is that the legal vehicle identity is that of the chassis, as shown by the number stamped on it. If you rebuild your S3 using this chassis, you may have to get the engine change engineered (but should be no issues), and at least in theory the change in body will also need to be engineered and plated.

There would be more issues building a 2a on a 3 chassis, as there would likely be issues with ADRS re hinges, padded dash etc.

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I did think about this...
I also thought what if the spring hanger was "repaired" and the chassis number re stamped[emoji6]
Looking on vicroads, my s3 didnt even have the chassis number on the database just the 186 matched to it.

Cheers Jim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LRJim

I did think about this...
I also thought what if the spring hanger was "repaired" and the chassis number re stamped[emoji6]
Looking on vicroads, my s3 didnt even have the chassis number on the database just the 186 matched to it.

Cheers Jim

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Up until about the post-war period, many vehicles either did not have a chassis number, or the sequence started afresh for each model, but engines, being by far the most expensive part of the car, tended to have a more distinctive number. As a result, the authorities just asked for the engine number.

Most registration authorities continued with the engine number being the legal identifier long after all the manufacturers were using distinctive chassis numbers (I know Victoria did when I moved there in 1971). Remember there still remained a large contingent of cars on the road just identified by the engine number and with no chassis number well into the 1960s - probably still are some.

The change of state systems to require a chassis number probably followed (with a lag) the introduction of the VIN system in the mid 1970s.

Got into the shed yesterday and had a good clean up, actually have a decent work space with all the crap cleared out.

Managed to get a few things done on the front end, got the tie rods and leaf springs off without a hassle. The drum screws were a bit painful but got them off eventually, the drums are pretty stuck on though. I don't really want to belt them too much because I'd like to clean them up and reuse them but if I have to destroy them so be it.
Once the drums are off ill be preparing it all for a coat of paint and refitting with new bushes.

I picked up another s2a for the wide light project this week, it has a few cracks in the front end of the chassis and some rust so I will be cutting the rear crossmember out of it and using it for the s3. It also has a custom fuel tank and winch under the tray which will be used for the wide light. So I will be pinching the factory rear fuel tank from the wide light for the s3.

Glad to get a few things moving hopefully I can find some more time to get it on the road.

Cheers

Few photos of where im at with it, and a photo of the checkerplate plate floor.
This isnt a resto so being original isn't a concern, I plan on having thick rubber on the floor for some sound proofing which will cover it all anyway.
Cheershttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...da38edb6e6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4a2619cd9b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f9b016b088.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...edba9f0850.jpg

Got in the shed for half an hour and removed the front bump stops, they are in decent condition so ill probably just clean them up and replace the bolts.
Now that the front end has fully been removed so im finding all the spots on the chassis I missed when painting, the bump stops will go back on after another coat of paint on the chassis.
Better to keep the ball rolling than not all!
Cheers