series 3 steering relay box

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

. The best source of Whitworth spanners is op shops, garage sales, and clearing sales.

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You guys are great. Thanks for the info!

Actually that's what I've been doing this morning looking around for garage sales and second hand seeing what's out there.

Another thing (amongst so many little things) I've noticed this morning is that the oil smells a little like fuel I think. I've put the wrong fuel in a couple months back (only 91 instead of 95, tuned for 95) and I put half a tank of 98 in to try and equal it out a bit. Is it a pressure thing when you've got fuel in the oil? Should I be worried?

Cheersa mill

Series 3 petrol has basically three ways I can think of if there is fuel getting in the oil-

1. Flooding carburettor. If it was this, poor running and black smoke should be apparent.

2. Badly worn rings - unlikely without other symptoms.

3. Perforated fuel pump diaphragm. Not common, but it is the only way fuel can get directly into the oil. As a variant on this, I am pretty certain the late Series 3 has a system that vents fuel tank fumes into the intake, and it is just possible that overfilling the tank could get some of the excess fuel into the sump via the crankcase ventilation system, but this is a bit far fetched.

My guess is that you are not smelling the fuel from the oil but from the under-bonnet environment, possibly a small fuel leak (not uncommon).

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Originally Posted by shwza

Thanks heaps. It's dead on the cutoff from imperial to metric I believe. 6/1980 released. Pretty sure the changeover was 7/1980!
Where do you need to use the Whitworth size spanners? Will I need Whitworth sockets or just a set of spanners you reckon?

It's also got an Australian heater valve by the looks of it, like a holden I think. I'm trying to unseize it but might just get a new one eventually
Attachment 168500

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Xw/xy Ford falcon available most places

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Series 3 petrol has basically three ways I can think of if there is fuel getting in the oil-

1. Flooding carburettor. If it was this, poor running and black smoke should be apparent.

2. Badly worn rings - unlikely without other symptoms.

3. Perforated fuel pump diaphragm. Not common, but it is the only way fuel can get directly into the oil. As a variant on this, I am pretty certain the late Series 3 has a system that vents fuel tank fumes into the intake, and it is just possible that overfilling the tank could get some of the excess fuel into the sump via the crankcase ventilation system, but this is a bit far fetched.

My guess is that you are not smelling the fuel from the oil but from the under-bonnet environment, possibly a small fuel leak (not uncommon).

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This is awesome so much info cheers

I am wondering if the carby had been flooding because it was setup for 95. Would putting a lower ethanol fuel cause it to flood? It's running pretty well but the mileage seems to be getting worse. Getting about 14l/100km atm but I've had it lower when running 95 only

I'm getting the smell from the dipstick when I check the oil. Wiped the dipstick with a paper cloth and I'm certain there's a fuel smell to it.
When I start it up I'm getting a small but noticeable splutter of sooty black particles that come out with a puff of white smoke/steam at times but when running it's not noticeable at all. Maybe from idle and putting the pedal straight down will get a white puff but I thought it smelt like fuel not vapor so I've been assuming for now it's running rich. The black soot only occurs after it's cooled down and I'm not sure if it's every time, I've been putting a piece of cardboard near the exhaust so I can monitor what comes out

Flooding carburettor will only occur due to -

1. Perforated float
2. Needle valve not sealing due to foreign material or worn (most likely)
3. Excessive fuel pressure. Unlikely unless the pump has been recently replaced with the wrong one.
4. If it is a Zenith carburettor the top cover is warped and allowing fuel to be sucked into the choke tube, or possibly other carburettor problems.

None of these are affected in the slightest by what grade of fuel you have in it, but note that some grades probably smell more or different to others.

A guess is that you have been mostly running it cold, with the choke at least partly out. This will gradually get some raw fuel into the cylinders where some will stick to the cylinder walls and be scraped off by the oil control rings into the sump.

Cheers John

I've been only starting it with the choke sometimes cos it seems a little how you going on start up, won't hold idle well and sometimes conks out but don't need it for long, it seems to want a bit of choke to get going, but I only run the choke until it starts to rev steadily without it. I rarely have left the driveway with the choke on.

Got a lot of food for thought here. And also a lot of things I actually have to look at as well!

Hey guys. Started on a few things again and looking at the steering tube does this look right? Shouldn't it be twisted a little in the way of the arrows so that it is sitting completely perpendicular?

Attachment 169534

This is the drag link from the pitman arm to the relay arm. These tie rod ends are free to rotate about that much in either direction, and perform equally across the full range. The only issue is if the two ends are twisted on the link so that both are against the limit in both directions. It shoulkd be possible to twist the link by hand at least about 30 degrees. And definitely neither tie rod end should be able to move relative to the tube.

This link usually gives no trouble at all, as it is not prone to damage from sticks, stones, running into stumps etc.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

This is the drag link from the pitman arm to the relay arm. These tie rod ends are free to rotate about that much in either direction, and perform equally across the full range. The only issue is if the two ends are twisted on the link so that both are against the limit in both directions. It shoulkd be possible to twist the link by hand at least about 30 degrees. And definitely neither tie rod end should be able to move relative to the tube.

This link usually gives no trouble at all, as it is not prone to damage from sticks, stones, running into stumps etc.

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Thanks John!

A disposable syringe is a good tool for getting some EP90 into the steering relay.
I use a 10mm one.

Just remove the filler screw and one opposite to let the air bleed out and away you go.
Whatever you do don't remove all four screws as the internals are under a fair bit of tension.

Cheers, Mick.