Master
Hey all noob here. Feel free to send me to the right place if it's already posted! I couldn't find anything yet.
I'm trying to check the fluid in the steering relay box but the best advice I've found so far has been "good luck"... do you really have to pull the whole front grill and surrounds off to get to it or is there something I'm missing?
Also as I go, I'm probably going to be asking for advice, is the best way just to make a new post if I can't find it already covered?
YarnMaster
SupporterOriginally Posted by shwza
I would think you would only have to remove the grill if anything. Checking the oil in the relay was a service item so they would not have made it too difficult . Somebody with a S3 will correct me if I am wrong.
As for asking questions you could start a new post or just keep adding to the one you have started , there is a title line at the top it is up to you.
TopicToaster
G'day Shwza,
Do you want to check the oil while it is in the vehicle; or take the whole steering relay unit out? As far as removal goes - I did what this bloke did ... same tool and it worked okay... Accessed 7th February 2021 from, Land Rover Series 3 Steering Relay Removal - YouTube.
Kind regards
Lionel
Master
Hey guys cheers first I just want to check it and top it up if needed. I've removed the grill but seems like it's a bit deeper in?
It's getting better as I'm using it more but it was laid up for a while and seems a little tough on steering. Learning my way around the vehicle pretty quick!
RoverLord
Land Rover Series 3 Steering Relay Removal - YouTube
the bolt the torch is about to shine on is how you get to check the level, use a ziptie.
if its low, mod a grease nipple to fit (or get one that does)
remove the bolt opposite it (have fun with that) then use a good quality grease gun to pump the oil in.
good luck getting a good quality grease gun
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
Ay thanks for that perfect.
It's actually what I thought it was but wasn't sure! Seems like there's a lot of good luck needed with owning a land Rover huh 😂
So the other bolt is just to let a bit of pressure out when you fill it? Is there a decent reference to what the basic set of tools that you really should have to maintain one of these?
I was going to get a grease gun off eBay. Have you had a hard time getting a decent one? Got a gear puller on the way and looking around for the rest of the tools
RoverLord
The main tools you need for maintenance (as opposed to repairs) are inch (AF) and Whitworth spanners (ring/open end and socket set) plus a hub nut spanner, and the usual workshop tools such as pliers and screwdrivers. If it is a very late S3 you will also need metric spanners, and these may also be needed for non-original parts.
The original Landrover used Whitworth/BSF threads and spanner sizes throughout, but these started being replaced by inch sizes with Series 2. This was incomplete even by the end of S3 production, as the last Series 3 still had a few Whitworth spanner sizes.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
Thanks heaps. It's dead on the cutoff from imperial to metric I believe. 6/1980 released. Pretty sure the changeover was 7/1980!
Where do you need to use the Whitworth size spanners? Will I need Whitworth sockets or just a set of spanners you reckon?
It's also got an Australian heater valve by the looks of it, like a holden I think. I'm trying to unseize it but might just get a new one eventually
Resized_20210121_192549.jpg
ForumSage
SupporterI got a valve from a Classic Ford parts supplier, about $70 some years back.
The operating lever orientation is different but easy to take apart & reassemble.
Australian made so could have been used on various locally produced vehicles.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
RoverLord
The change from imperial to metric was not a sharp cutoff - the five bearing engine was the first engine to use metric threads, but while it is supposed to have been fitted from 1980, it was not fitted to a 1981 S3 I had. And as far as the rest of the vehicle goes, there is still plenty of UNF in my 1986 110 body.
The part that comes to mind where Whitworth (or rather BSF remained until the end of S3 production is the axle drive flanges, but there are probably a few others. And what you need to be aware of is that many parts on your S3 are fully interchangeable with parts from earlier or later Landrovers at least as assemblies, and may have been fitted as replacements sometime during the vehicle's forty plus years. One place where you are likely to find a change to metric, for example, is if any tierod ends have been replaced recently the nuts on them are probably metric.
Probably all Series Landrovers today you will need all three types of spanner.
You should be able to mange with ring/OE Whitworth spanners, but having sockets as well is useful. The best source of Whitworth spanners is op shops, garage sales, and clearing sales, where you can often get very good and very cheap Whitworth spanners of all types. (It is easy to identify spanners as Whitworth - the size is marked with a W in newer ones, but even where this is absent the fact that the size marked is much less than the spanner opening is a dead giveaway, as the spanner size on Whitworth threads is designated by the bolt diameter. Many Whitworth spanners are marked with two sizes, Whitworth and BSF - both these thread systems use the same spanners, but BSF uses nuts one size smaller. Confusingly, you will find that almost all Whitworth nuts and bolt heads are the BSF size - this is because the original nut size was specified for wrought iron, but of course today they are all steel, and the smaller nuts became standard for engineering work during WW2.
Note. BSF=British Standard Fine.
That certainly looks like a Holden heater valve. It may have been fitted in the factory in Sydney, as part of the Australian content rules. By 1980 a large proportion of the vehicle's parts apart from mechanicals were made in Australia, and some of these were different from the Home models, often using parts made by suppliers that had tooled up for manufacturers such as Holden. This valve would be a prime candidate for such substitution, but it could equally well have been changed for one during the life of this vehicle.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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