Rebuilt front swivels running in required?

Also, if you have a dial indicator check the end float of the wheels. Just to rule out a wheel bearing issue.
I wouldn't trust the top / bottom side to side method of checking

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Originally Posted by Discosux

X2.

I've done around 3 rebuilds, never ever had to redo them (apart from normal wear, many years later)

Were the shims dry when you did the preload?

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Dry? Interesting question, I assume if they were oiled, you're thinking that would change the pre load requirement?

I can't actually recall if I applied oil, I'm guessing I would have, being metal my natural reaction would have been to give they an oil coating...

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Originally Posted by TeZZaP

Seals off... it's no good, I'm going to have to strip them down and take a look and see what's causing it! The odd thing it's both sides, so I'm guessing it must have been something I did, rather than some crap replacement part.

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Just be thankful you have a proper old school 4X4. Pressing in ball joints at home takes LR sucking to a whole new level



Also - check it's not something with the steering causing the play?????

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Discosux

Also, if you have a dial indicator check the end float of the wheels. Just to rule out a wheel bearing issue.
I wouldn't trust the top / bottom side to side method of checking

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Will do, I might check that first, since it's the easiest thing to do!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TeZZaP

Dry? Interesting question, I assume if they were oiled, you're thinking that would change the pre load requirement?

I can't actually recall if I applied oil, I'm guessing I would have, being metal my natural reaction would have been to give they an oil coating...

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I rebuilt the transfer case once and oiled the output bearing shims, big mistake. The oil soon went south and totally changed the preload. Not good.

i'm not sure the amount of surface area of the swivel bearings shims / amount of shims would equal a drastic change though??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Discosux

I rebuilt the transfer case once and oiled the output bearing shims, big mistake. The oil soon went south and totally changed the preload. Not good.

i'm not sure the amount of surface area of the swivel bearings shims / amount of shims would equal a drastic change though??

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Interesting, I'd never thought about whether oiled shims could change the pre-load, I can't see how though, they are effectively spacers after all, so no movement there. If I strip it down I might check to see if I can detect a difference between oiled and un-oiled shims!

Re check wheel bearing play.
The Railco Bush has a Fiber washer fitted inside it. Did you fit it ?

whitehillbilly

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Re check wheel bearing play.
The Railco Bush has a Fiber washer fitted inside it. Did you fit it ?

whitehillbilly

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Yep

Just guessing, but could be some foreign matter on any of the mating surfaces that was strong enough to stand the preload, but not road impacts that either embedded it or squeezed it out. By mating surfaces I include the seats for the railko bush at the top and the taper bearing at the bottom.

You can expect some wear on the thrust fibre washer, especially if it was poor quality.

Thanks for all your replies.

Just got someone to help with checking where the wobble actually is;

With NO foot brake applied;
Top/bottom movement evident
Side to side, no movement evident

With foot brake applied there was no movement evident in any direction on either of the front wheels

When I completed the rebuild a month or so back everything was solid, with no movement detectable anywhere (and all set to correct torque, end float, pre-load etc).