Rebuilt front swivels running in required?

G'day,
As they say "there's your problem" it's the end float on the hub bearings.

This is how I setup the hub end float on my 1966 2A daily driver: I set the end float to ZERO. It takes a bit of time to get it to ZERO WITHOUT any pre-load by also temporarily fitting the lock nut at the correct torque.
The reason I do this because the distances pieces for the seal is not made out of bearing steel anymore and are a chromemoly type steel now and they do wear quickly as the cone floats on the stub axle causing excessive end float.
My hub bearings are still the 55 year old originals and are perfectly serviceable and hubs are oil filled.

This is what I do.
Chris

The hub nuts were definitely under tightened, probably me being too timid (and relying on the dial gauge), rather than my senses… I snugged them up, which took all the play out. I’ll check again in a couple of weeks to check no play has reappeared!

Thanks for everyones advice and help, much appreciated.

After adjusting the nuts, on the next run for any distance, stop after about ten kilometres, preferably without using the brakes, and check the hub temperature by hand. They should all be the same. If one you have just adjusted is hot, suspect overtightened nuts, but make sure it is not a dragging brake by touching the outer edge of the drum (carefully!).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TeZZaP

The hub nuts were definitely under tightened, probably me being too timid (and relying on the dial gauge), rather than my senses… I snugged them up, which took all the play out. I’ll check again in a couple of weeks to check no play has reappeared!

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I've found that I have less issues now I press the bearings in on a 20Tonne press.
Using a drift to insert the outer races you're never quite sure that the race is fully pressed home so it moves a touch the first time it's subjected to cornering loads and suddenly the bearings are loose.

I used to set up with a dial gauge but now adjust with a just perceptible end float. As Chris mentioned, you can only confirm the endfloat or lack thereof by tightening the locknut. This takes up any play between nuts & thread on the stub axle.

On my Series I three wheels have the original Skefco bearings which are greased, one had suffered water ingress before I purchased it so in went some no-name bearings.
The no-name bearings seem OK in general and the cost of big name bearings for Series I to III is prohibitive. One of the races is an odd size, last time I checked an SKF set was over $300.


Colin

I've found it easier to detect and adjust the end float with the wheel on the hub. However, it's also easier to over tighten the hub nuts. Therefore when using this method it is important to remove the wheel when you've finished, to make sure there is no resistance when rotating the hub.
.W.

The dial gauge method of setting wheel bearings is a crook of crap, 0.004 end float and the wheel feels like its going to fall off
With the wheel on spin and fully tighten bearing by hand , no wobble back off slight movement , make sure movement is still the same when lock nuts done up
Only other thing is the railko cup or bearing may not have been fully seated