Hello,
I have a 1984 S3 109 FFR, for some reason, I turn the key, it’s starts, but won’t stay running after I let the key go.
I’ve put a new ignition switch in, does the same thing, tracing the wiring, it looks like all wires connected to the relays in the centre console have come off, due to corrosion on the relays, I have no idea what pin is what, and where said wires should go.
engine will stay running if I hold the key in the start position, but so does the starter motor.
I have the wiring diagram, which I’ve followed and still no joy.
any ideas please.
Many thanks in advance
Tim
you need to ensure you have power to the coil with the key in the on position. The ignition switch normally puts power to the coil when cranking but this is a separate circuit to ensure the starter isn't running all the time.
It can be a pain to work out which wire goes where on the ignition switch. Also if you have a resistor added to the coil you will need to check to ensure you have power both sides, sometimes the resistors can burn out.
you need to ensure you have power to the coil with the key in the on position. The ignition switch normally puts power to the coil when cranking but this is a separate circuit to ensure the starter isn't running all the time.
It can be a pain to work out which wire goes where on the ignition switch. Also if you have a resistor added to the coil you will need to check to ensure you have power both sides, sometimes the resistors can burn out.
Ian
Bittern
Thanks Ian, I think the problem is as simple as the wiring has pulled out of the relay, I will follow your instructions if the obvious problem doesn’t solve the issue
Sounds like a typical Ballast Resistor symptom, starts and runs whilst the ignition is in the "Start" position,
but as soon as you let it go back to the "On" position, the engine cuts out.
If the vehicle has a Ballast Resistor replace it.
If it doesn't have one you will have to keep troubleshooting.
If you are not familiar with them here is a pic of a Ballast Resistor.
As a temporary test you can join the two wires that go to it, but dont drive it too far as the coil will overheat.
As far as I can ascertain, no Series Landrovers (not sure about V8) has a ballast resistor. However, if it has a Holden motor, these normally do have, so it may be fitted with the Holden motor.
Ballast resistors were an attempt by US manufacturers to help starting in 6v electrical systems, and remained as a hangover when these were upgraded to 12v around 1960 on, but were uncommon where 12v had been used since the 1920s, as with Rover.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Sounds like a typical Ballast Resistor symptom, starts and runs whilst the ignition is in the "Start" position,
but as soon as you let it go back to the "On" position, the engine cuts out.
If the vehicle has a Ballast Resistor replace it.
If it doesn't have one you will have to keep troubleshooting.
If you are not familiar with them here is a pic of a Ballast Resistor.
As a temporary test you can join the two wires that go to it, but dont drive it too far as the coil will overheat.
Good luck.
Cheers, Mick.
Thanks Mick, definitely has a filter pre coil, 2.25L petrol, original motor, thanks for the info, I’ll have a good look at it
cheers, Tim
As far as I can ascertain, no Series Landrovers (not sure about V8) has a ballast resistor. However, if it has a Holden motor, these normally do have, so it may be fitted with the Holden motor.
Ballast resistors were an attempt by US manufacturers to help starting in 6v electrical systems, and remained as a hangover when these were upgraded to 12v around 1960 on, but were uncommon where 12v had been used since the 1920s, as with Rover.
Hi John, 2.25L Petrol, original motor, thanks for the info
cheers, Tim
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