Series III 2.6L 6-pot massive oil leak from wading plug hole

Hi Matt,

The crank case ventilation system is pretty simple, from memory p/n 566957 is pretty much a hollow chamber, but the flame trap could be clogged or perhaps a mud wasp cocoon in one of the hoses if it has been sitting. Easiest elimination is to try disconnecting it at the breather pipe on the crank case and seeing what happens. Another thing to remember is that many ‘sources’ of oil might make make their way to the bottom of the flywheel housing before they drip (as that is the lowest point at that part of the engine). There is a plug for an oil gallery pipe at the back of the engine block, as well as the oil gallery feed pipe to the rocker shaft at the back of the head. Leaks from either of these would tend to drip from the flywheel housing. Let us know how you go!

Cheers,

Matt

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Originally Posted by matthamilton

I just pulled out the workshop manual and was reading about the flame trap. So this is how it's vented back into the carb to re-burn. got it. So here is the entire story: had just pulled the truck out of the garage and backed out and off the edge of my driveway. So the back end was a bit lower than the front. Then the motor stopped. I thought that might be the sign of a stuck float in the Stromberg...at least this is what first came to mind. Took me forever to get restarted and this was unusual since it has been real easy to start. Noticed I had a loose plug in #5 and removed, cleaned all plugs, and finally got started by pulling choke all the way out. It never ran smooth after that. Seemed to be missing and I attributed that to the fouled out plugs. They were dirty and soaked with fuel. I figured I'd run it at a higher idle to help burn off the buildup on the plugs. Started blowing grey/black smoke...again this was new. I still thought that this was just the engine expelling or burning all the excess fuel that had gotten in the cylinders.

Pulled the truck forward to drive it back in the garage. Got out to make sure it was aligned (small garage) and noticed a drip from the bell housing area. Then pulled it in and noticed the oil pressure was dropping quickly. Immediately shut the engine down. Looked underneath the truck and there was a pond of oil about 18 inches across.

The truck had run like a top prior to this episode on Sunday.

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I'm not that familiar with the six cylinder engine, but looking at the manual, there is a cover on the back end of the camshaft that could potentially leak. But I would think this is unlikely.

Looking at the emission system, the only bits that it seems could pressurise the crankcase is the flame trap and its connecting hoses and the valve to the manifold, and the hose from the breather assembly on top of the intake rocker cover. Both of these would have to be blocked. In some cases people have blocked these deliberately in the mistaken belief that they are reducing performance.

Unfortunately, I conclude though that the most likely problem is that the crankshaft seal is damaged - it looks as if this would be very easy to do during installation!

thanks for your input. I will inspect the flame trap and the plumbing associated with that system. I’m also going to pressure test the system and see how my oil pressure gauge reacts. This truck has two oil pressure sensors. One simply disconnects a circuit when pressure if created in the crankcase at start and extinguishes the oil pressure light. The other sensor actually registers an amount of pressure and sends that to a gauge on my cell yet dash. This has always showed really high pressure. Like the needle was pegged past 100 psi. I have always assumed that this gauge is not correct since I did rebuild the sensor and when testing prior to installation it was never really correct.

but I’m going to test this by adding air pressure through the oil filler cap and see what the oil pressure gauge registers.

At the same time I’m going to look for leaks.

I keep going back to what changed between previous times I was running the engine and this last Sunday and the only thing difference was that I plugged off a nipple on the intake manifold where the emissions evaporator hose was attached. Much like CCV that re-burns fumes this is the same system for fuel tank fumes and it recirculates using the vacuum created from the air being sucked into the carb.

i plugged the nipple of the intake manifold along with the place where it attached to the air filter housing.

first, I don’t think the oil pressure was as high as the gauge was showing. Sexondly, I can’t imagine plugging the nipple on the intake (basically voiding the simple emissions bypass) would cause any additional pressure to build.

since I can’t start the truck, or afraid to start, since it has spewed so much oil I am going to do what I can by pressure testing without running the engine.

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Originally Posted by drfish

Hi Matt,

The crank case ventilation system is pretty simple, from memory p/n 566957 is pretty much a hollow chamber, but the flame trap could be clogged or perhaps a mud wasp cocoon in one of the hoses if it has been sitting. Easiest elimination is to try disconnecting it at the breather pipe on the crank case and seeing what happens. Another thing to remember is that many ‘sources’ of oil might make make their way to the bottom of the flywheel housing before they drip (as that is the lowest point at that part of the engine). There is a plug for an oil gallery pipe at the back of the engine block, as well as the oil gallery feed pipe to the rocker shaft at the back of the head. Leaks from either of these would tend to drip from the flywheel housing. Let us know how you go!

Cheers,

Matt

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A couple of points -

1. The pressure gauges you have measure the pressure of the oil, not the crankcase pressure, which is the air pressure in the open space inside the engine. They are completely independent.

2. It is quite possible that NAS* Series III Landrovers had a quite different emissions control system that is not covered by the manuals I have (which only specifically mention the home market (UK), European, and Australian setups).


*North American Specification, that is modifications to meet US regulations, and fitted to vehicles exported to USA and Canada.

Edit: You could build a simple smoke tester I guess. Probably just get smoke out of the same hole though.


Seems to me that the engine is coming out regardless. lease let us know what you find, with pics if possible.

I should have said that this truck is Australian ex-mod. I have found additional information on the CCV and Evap emissions systems. Both are just a way to burn excess fuel fumes and both are routed back through the carb

my truck also has two oil pressure sensors. One that simply cuts power to the oil light on the dash when pressure is detected and one that actually uses a diaphragm and resistance to report the pressure to a gauge on the center dash. This was disconnected when I received the truck and I “restored “ it but it has never reported the correct values so I’m trying to find one that will fit into the brass “T” that is is tapped for the two sensors.

At this point, I’m simply hoping that when I pull the engine I have an obvious failure. I hope I can see for sure that the seal failed and possibly why. The worst will be pulling the engine and not seeing anything obvious. If I don’t see anything obvious then I’m not sure what I’ll do. I had the block inspected and cleaned and the heads ground and everything that wasn’treplaced with new components was “mic’ed” and was spot on like the crankshaft.

I will say it has been nice to hear from all of you. My brother who lives in Townsville sent this truck to me as a gift and I have restored it as a re-gift to him. He doesnÂ’t know it yet. So I really want to get this together and have confidence in its performance.

thanks for all the help!!!

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

A couple of points -

1. The pressure gauges you have measure the pressure of the oil, not the crankcase pressure, which is the air pressure in the open space inside the engine. They are completely independent.

2. It is quite possible that NAS* Series III Landrovers had a quite different emissions control system that is not covered by the manuals I have (which only specifically mention the home market (UK), European, and Australian setups).


*North American Specification, that is modifications to meet US regulations, and fitted to vehicles exported to USA and Canada.

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If the engine had just been rebuilt as you say, my guess is that the crankshaft seal is either incorrectly assembled or was damaged during installation.

You haven't got an oil leak out the oil feed pipe at the back of the motor feeding the overhead rocker gear, it's easy to lose one of the copper washers or the nut may be loose or olive worn & not seating.

Ask me how I know that I don't have a leak from the oil pipe that feeds oil to the rockers?!?!? I have definitely made this mistake before and oil went everywhere. And since it dripped from above it could have the appearance of being a leak from lots of places. That said, I do know this time it's not that. Thanks for your suggestion.

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Originally Posted by 1950landy

You haven't got an oil leak out the oil feed pipe at the back of the motor feeding the overhead rocker gear, it's easy to lose one of the copper washers or the nut may be loose or olive worn & not seating.

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The seal on the 2.6l is a split seal. I followed the workshop manual's instructions, but do you have any experience and recommendations that aren't found in the manual? I'll gladly take them!!!

I have purchased a smoke machine that can deliver smoke under pressure allowing me to test the seals after I make the repair. And I can use this for A/C, Coolant, oil, EVAP systems so I'll get good use out of.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

If the engine had just been rebuilt as you say, my guess is that the crankshaft seal is either incorrectly assembled or was damaged during installation.

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