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The 2.1/4 block has oil gallery’s which are plugged at the front and rear of the engine block, the rear are positioned behind the flywheel housing. I would think the 2.6 motor has the same is it possible you didn’t replace one of these plugs or it was only hand tight and now the oil is entering the housing from the gallery might explain oil pressure at start but then dropping and the amount of oil on the deck.
gippy
Pretty much what I was trying to get at with my Welch plug idea. I remembered something behind there. Reckon you've nailed it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gippslander
There it is - p/n 279415. Definitely worth checking!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ca6c2a6cb1.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
another great question. I did confirm that the oil seal was oriented correctly. The spring was facing toward the pistons or crankcase. Thanks for the input.
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Originally Posted by Busted Syncro
will be checking this ASAP and reporting back!!!! It’s great waking up and having more feedback. Thanks gentlemen!!!!
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Originally Posted by drfish
Have confirmed that p/n 279415 is properly installed and tightened.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drfish
Doesn't leave much.
Id be checking the rear main bearing setup and orientation...
on the 2.25 its not reversable and it makes for some very interesting sealing and oil pressure issues.
Ive also seen them leak through a cracked bearing block and when the block does not seat completely due to crud getting between the mating faces at the bearing. it'll hold a gap a couple of thou which is exactly at the site of the split in the seal holder. This neatly bypasses the rear main in total and is an easy path out for oil @ lube pressure.
Its also worth checking the bearing block bolts, Ive seen one left loose on a yota engine which gave a similar symptom and watched a monkey stretch one on a cat using a rattle gun.
good luck.
Hello thread followers!!! Just a quick note about this weekend. Got the new seal and seal retainer halves installed. With all the new knowledge imparted on me about how tricky the rear main seal is to fit properly on these engines, I was even more thorough this time. I'm going to take some pics with my borescope camera and post them sometime this week with some notes I made while installing the seal. That said, I do believe that I got it right this time and I can definitely see how the seal might look correct, but be bulging on one side or the other. It is a delicate dance between tightening the seal retainer halves which press the seal against the recess in the big end caps and tightening the big end cap which holds the seal in place from the bottom. If you tighten one more than the other the seal will bulge or slip out of the recess. It is tricky due to how much the seal is compressed in order to create a tight fit. But, honestly, once I was aware of how the installation failures occur then it was simply a matter of taking my time.
Also, I spoke to an engine builder very familiar with this process and the 2.6l. Not much to recommend over and above what the workshop manual calls for except to use RTV for the t-seals versus the cork or rubber t-seals provided.
More to come with pics hopefully!!!
Thread followers!!! So, I've attached a few pics (tried to attach a video but didn't work) using my borescope. And, before anyone comments, the pics are not 1080hp. They look great on the boroscope display, but the downloaded pics aren't that great.
This is peering through the crank bolt holes at the 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock position looking at the seal (seal has a gold coating) as it sits in the seal retaining halve recesses. Select a pic then identify the curvature of the seal and retaining halves. To the outside of the curve you'll see the shiny side of the retaining halve. As you move inward you will see the rear main seal and its metal internal support that has a gold color coating. Continuing to move inward you will see the black of the rear main seal and then further inward in som epics you will see the crack shaft. In a few of pics you will also see the area of the split in the rear main seal and the hinge of the rear main seal.
What I see is that the seal appears to be positioned nicely against the seal retaining halves and evenly across the seal. I don't see any gaps in the area where the seal sits on and around the crankshaft. I have since forced red RTV into the area where the t-seals usually are installed and followed it as it pushed its way up along the surface that borders the crankcase itself. I've attached a couple of pics of this as well.
Feeling a bit more confident that I've got the seal and retaining halves installed correctly. We will see. Have to travel for the next 10 days so I am planning to begin the process of putting the engine back together and getting it back in position around the 31st. More to come. Again, thanks to all that have provided suggestions, input and comments. All very helpful!!
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