Series III - Clutch adjustment question

**Balmain Boy** · 18th June 2025, 01:27 PM

Hello All,

Sunday was the big day with starting the engine on my 3 year SWB project. The good news is the engine started straight away the bad news is that I could not get the car into gear.

As I did the new clutch I have assumed I have done something wrong.

After a few days of of not wanting to work on the car I got the energy to take out the floor and tunnel and inspect the clutch movement. The great news is that there was mechanical movement the only issue is that it was so small.

I opened the clutch pedal box and adjusted the clutch master cylinder pushrod. I have attached a video and photos to show the adjustment and the amount of movement I am getting in my clutch.

My dilemma is that it looks like I need to adjust the pushrod so much that I no longer have the bolt on the other end (4th picture) and I am still able to push the clutch all the way to the floor.

Any suggestions or thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Do I need more movement in the clutch? Also it look like another adjusting bolt on the clutch pedal box - could this help (in third picture).

Thanks always for reading and your help - definitely could not have gotten this far without the help of this great community.

Chris

IMG_8437.jpg IMG_8435.jpg IMG_8434.jpg IMG_8433.jpg

**DieselLSE** · 18th June 2025, 06:50 PM

That's plenty of movement at the flywheel. And you shouldn't need to be that far along the adjuster at the master cylinder. From memory, the rear nut should be about 10mm or so in from the end.
I hate to ask it, but have you put the driven plate in the correct way?

**Balmain Boy** · 19th June 2025, 07:37 AM

Originally Posted by DieselLSE

That's plenty of movement at the flywheel. And you shouldn't need to be that far along the adjuster at the master cylinder. From memory, the rear nut should be about 10mm or so in from the end.
I hate to ask it, but have you put the driven plate in the correct way?

Thanks- when I put the rear nut on the movement of the clutch reduces to virtually no movement (a few mm) hence I had to take it off to get more movement.

Driven plate? I am pretty sure it is on correctly but then it is my first time.

**Balmain Boy** · 25th August 2025, 09:30 AM

Hi All, I thought I would close out this post with actually what happened. After mucking around with the clutch pedal box I decided to re-bleed the clutch.

As much as we tried we could not get all of the air out and there was no visible leaks. We eventually managed to isolate that the valve on the master cylinder was not sealed properly (brand new Britpart

). Replaced the master cyclinder with a bosch version (which was a hassle of a job) but after bleending the clutch lines the clutch works as expected. My mistake was assuming the new parts would work be fine and the problem was somewhere else.

Thanks, Chris

**JDNSW** · 25th August 2025, 08:49 PM

I find that the clutch master cylinder on Series 2/2a/3 and 90/110 are far less trouble to simply remove the whole pedal assembly.

Disconnect the pipe(s), remove six bolts with captive nuts, lift the whole lot out upwards, and work in comfort on the bench. I use a vice to hold it while working on it.

Before starting raise the bonnet to vertical and secure it in place or just remove it.

Reverse procedure for installation.

Another "gotcha" is you will find it impossible to bleed the clutch properly if the nose is down, and it is a lot easier than level with the nose up a little on Series 3 and 90/110/Defender. You can get round this by using a pressure bleeder of reverse bleeding.

I found this when I got stuck with no clutch in a sloping driveway with the 110, and made a jury rigged reverse bleeder using a thoroughly cleaned and washed with metho oil syringe (worked perfectly well), later building a proper one at home.

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