Rear Diff Problems

**keeffe88** · 28th April 2008, 09:53 AM

Gday All,
Well Ive finally had some spare time the last few weekends and the Landy is slowly going back together. Ive found it most interesting, and finally having things going back on has been somewhat of a thrill.

So with the hubs back together and the wheels back on, it was time for a complete oil change all round. Here in lies the problem however.

When draining the rear diff, unfortunately it wasn't just oil that fell out. Out came a finger nail size tooth off one of the gears.

Now here is where I require your expertise. Obviously i need to disassemble the diff to find out where it has come from. My questions are:
1. How easy is it to pull the diff apart, basic description of how this is done.
2. How expensive are replacement gears, and how easy are these to fit.
3. What might the other options be, Diff lock, seems i may be replacing the guts anyway? Cost?

Any help anyone might be able to give would be much appreciated.

Looks like there will be a few more hours under the old girl yet.

Cheers, Josh

**Aaron IIA** · 28th April 2008, 10:16 AM

Your vehicle is a SWB so I will assume you have a Rover differential, the same as the front, and not a Salisbury. To remove the differential, remove both half shafts by taking out the six bolts that hold the drive flange to the hub. Romove the propellor shaft from the differential. Romove the nuts holding the differential to the casing. Remove the differential. It can get a little bit heavy, so take care. As you are not removing the hubs, the wheels can stay on, and no jacking is required.
Aaron.

**JDNSW** · 28th April 2008, 02:25 PM

As Aaron says. Very easy to remove.

By far the simplest and cheapest fix is to replace it with a good second hand diff. These were interchangeable from 1949 until the end of Series 3 production, although there are small differences. The only thing to watch is that you make sure you have one with the same ratio - yours should be 4.7:1, but the Rangerover classic diffs are interchangeable but 3.54:1 ratio - and there is some possibility that either yours or the donor has had a change* at some time.

A suitable diff should be available quite cheaply, or even free from someone on here. I'm a bit far away, or I could help.

John

* Very early Landrovers were 4.88:1, Stage 1 V8& Isuzu and 90/110/Defender the same as Rangerover/Disco, some Rover cars 4.11:1, all interchangeable, so make sure before fitting a replacement that it has the same number of teeth!

Wazza · 28th April 2008, 04:37 PM

Are series 2/2a military rear diffs the same?
If so i have a complete hub to hub here u can have for free if your quick.

Cheers
Wazza

**JDNSW** · 28th April 2008, 04:58 PM

Originally Posted by Wazza

Are series 2/2a military rear diffs the same?
...............

Cheers
Wazza

Assuming the military one is lwb, the actual diff is the same, but the axle housing and brakes are different on the lwb. (and assuming it is an original Rover rear axle not a salisbury)

John

Wazza · 28th April 2008, 05:10 PM

yeah it was a lwb workshop
Yes it is the rover diff.
Yess it is free if u want to come get it soon before it goes away

Cheers

Wazza

**lro11** · 28th April 2008, 05:54 PM

This might be some use to you LAND ROVER CROWN WHEEL & PINION 4.7 - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 08-May-08 16:41:43 AEST)

**keeffe88** · 28th April 2008, 06:11 PM

Gday Wazza,

I would be interested in your offer. I will PM you.

Cheers, Josh

**Ruski73** · 28th April 2008, 06:56 PM

Hey Josh.

I've just recently done the rear diff. It's not too hard if I can do it. The fly in the ointment for me, apart from having no idea at all, was I couldn't for the life of me withdraw the drivers side axle. So I whipped the flange/stub/etc off and lo and behold I had a spring wrapped around the axle. Soon worked out what I had was a lock diff. The locking mechanism is a bolt through the hubcap (seen on the avatar) which, when undone drops the axle into the centre of the diff. Attached is a picture of my efforts ...

Best of luck with the job.

**keeffe88** · 24th May 2008, 02:30 PM

Thanks Everyone for the info and help.
Special thanks also to Wazza for his kind donation.

Picked up the Diff a few weeks ago, only got round to pulling them out and swapping them over today.

A few quick questions however:
1. In the acquired 2/2a diff there is a bar in the very center of the diff. This at the moment appears to be missing two pins on either side that stop it from sliding from side to side. What sort of pins are these? Are they necessary? The ratio is the same as the one that came out, slight differences in set up though. The 2/2a seems to have a recessed groove for the pins, whilst the series 3 one had clips on either end. Any help/suggestions appreciated on this...

And the plot also thickened a little.... When i pulled the diff off the car, there seemed to be no gears that were missing teeth??? Perhaps it was a remnant from an earlier broken diff? Im thinking i will still use the 2/2a diff center as it is in better condition than the series 3 one. series 3 one had a lot of surface rust in the diff center.

Cheers,
Josh

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