Thread: Rust... what to do (and Hi)

rust bad...

mark out where it is in your mind and as soon as you see some hit it with fishoil engine oil or anything else to get it slowed down. Then workout how your going to fix it, bog is not your friend here...

the words grinder gas axe and welder should be bouncing out of every nuron you own in relation to the primary tools you will be using to cure the problem with rivets, kill rust paint, rustop and repaint following close behind.

Originally Posted by TeZZaP

..............
So, my first question is about what's an exceptable level of rust to most people here... would you bother to patch this, or just rust inhibit/convert? I was thinking of welding, possible even peeling off the skin and replacing the bottom section (as has been mentioned in another thread with 25 mm sq onto 3 mm flat to make it look like the original structure) and then popping the skin back...

Tar

TeZZa

I'd be replacing the bottom rail of that door. Note that you can get the proper section from at least some suppliers (e.g. Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne list it in their catalogue).

John

Thanks guys, my gut reaction was 'rust bad', but then I have been told that I'm way too fussy sometimes... pedantic was the word they called me!

I was thinking along the lines of welding new bits in, but I didn't realise you could actually buy the bottom rail. On a side note; could I cut out the damaged bits and weld new bits in with the door skin still in place, or would the heat affect the skin?

I had similar rust in the doors when rebuilt my IIA. IMO it doesn't look bad enough to replace the whole channel (I didn't).

I just cut the rusty sections out, fabricated some repair sections, and mig welded them in. Before I did it though, I removed the door skins, and got them galvanised after repairing them (along with a heap of other bits).

Was it hard removing the door skins?