Printable View
I know 1 or 2 people who had those FWHs - they seemed to work fine. I also can't remember the name though.
Somewhere I have a Land Rover "Approved Accessories" brochure from the early '70s. FWHs and Fairey ODs are on the list, all available to be fitted by the dealer.
Personally, I pulled my FWHs (selectros) off and threw them away years ago. Noticed no difference in fuel consumption, and my top swivel bushes have stayed in much better condition.
I have a set of those on my SWB. Diana is right! Badge says....MFG Under Licence By Shute Upton of Eng.
Also we have had this vehicle for many long years, and the hubs have not been problematic.
cheers
ER
All that I can read on mine is "Powerlock Hubs". The main advantage of them IMHO is that you can stand on them. And they don't break on wayward stumps and rocks. I carry my screwdriver in the seatbox reinforcer bars.
That's the first set of LWB Series 3 (24-spline) "Powerlockers" I've ever seen, though. All the ones I've got are 10-spline. I reckon a Series 2b Forward Control owner would love them... Not me, since I already have FWHs on mine, but someone...
Dan.
69 2a 88" pet4, 74 3 109" pet4, 68 2b FC pet6.
Dan,Quote:
Originally Posted by dandlandyman
Olmate has the same set. They read Powerlock Hubs then list the the directions for use before the 'Under Licence By Shute Upton of Eng' bit.
I have never had an issue with them being weak when belted around the scrub and short blokes like me appreciate them when you need to work under the bonnet. Screw drivers are the go to lock/unlock them.
G'day Folks :)
Most dealers and sub dealers,had a selection of types of free wheel hubs, EI:Power Lock, Selecto, & AVM, these were listed along with External Sunvisors, Internal Sunvisors,Radio, Heater, Demisters Universal type (those little things with the suction cups on the ends), Ash Trays, Fog Lights, Driving Lights, Water Bag Carrier 2nd External Mirror, Mudflaps,Windscreen Washers,:) all those things that are now required by ADR's
Those Power Lock units were not a problem unit if used correctly BTW the usual advise to new owners was to engage all/any hubs for at least 50 miles in every 500 miles to lube the swivels (EP-90) as there is a lube hole in the base of the bushes.
cheers
Troy,
Those hubs have no problems with being belted about or stood on. The worst ones for that are the Selectro ones with the knob. I guess the Fairey ones could be bad, too, but I've only ever seen one set.
The Shute-Upton Powerlock hubs IMO are the best because you can stand on them and (in a pinch) glance them off stumps and rocks. Really, though, any of the AVM-type bar-drive-engaging-knob hubs are better than the old Selectros. Those spanner-drive MAP hubs wouldn't be too bad, either.
How do I arrive at this opinion? I have a box of broken old Selectro hubs, all broken in the same way. I can't find bits for any of the other types, though. I put AVMs on my FC.
Ok, all ranted out again.
Dan.
69 2a 88" pet4, 74 3 109" pet4, 68 2b FC pet6.
I once had the same opinion of the MAP hubs. I thought that they looked strong, and I liked their engaging technique. But after fitting them earlier this year, I have a different view. They use four keys that have springs to engage them into keyways, with a camplate to retract the keys to enable freewheel. Under load, the keys pop out from their keyway. This is probably due to the keys being tapered, which aids in thier insertion. As any engineer knows, if you load up a tapered key, it wants to pop out. There is only a light spring to attempt to prevent this. I will in the future re-machine the keyways square, and get new square keys.
Aaron.
For what it is worth, my 2a is currently running Warn hubs. I got these of the remains of an early 2a I paid $15 for. Rather to my surprise they were, when stripped, in as new condition. Heaven knows how much work they have done. I normally leave them engaged, disengaging them for long on-road trips (it is rarely used on road). Warn hubs seem to be rare on Series Landrovers, but were and are common on other four wheel drives, although obviously they were available. Anyone know why this is?
Incidentally, I have always wondered about the advice to run hubs engaged every 500miles or whatever - you can achieve the same (except it does not exercise the operating mechanism) by simply engaging four wheel drive (while stopped of course) and leaving it engaged until next time you stop. As this does not involve getting out and operating the hubs, it seems to me that it is much more likely to get done.
John
Thanks S_1_SQuote:
Originally Posted by stage1slave
These people who doubt one's information! :D :D :D
I said they were "SUE" and they were!!! :angel:
In truth, I also had a pair on my 1960 88" and never had a problem (and didn't even lose the tool), but then I only had the 2 1/4 litre engine and not a twin carb 186 S Holden donk with "Yella Terra" head and a bent to destroy my car up every rocky hill I saw. I am sure that some of the people who did break them must have left one of the camlocks disengaged forcing all the stress onto one side of the housing. After there are some ratbags out there, who are more likely to blame the machine rather than admit their own stupidity.
If they have lasted for 40 years, they are probably O.K for another 40.
Cheers
Diana
P.S. That's still not an admission of error. ;)
Dan did you know that Fairey and MAP are the same company, MAP is also known as Mayflower and were bought out by Fairey in the 1960's so lots of MAP products like the capstan winches became Fairey.Quote:
Originally Posted by dandlandyman
I believe that Fairey, is also the conglomerate who made the Fairey Swordfish bi-plane.
In terms of FW hubs, the early Warn hubs were the best, the later ones not as good as the early models and AVM is merely a copy of the Warn.
Unfortunately there are lots of problems with lubrication of Railko bushes when you have FW hubs as the oil is not splashed around and the bearing surfaces wear badly.
Diana