Thread: Full Brake line kit for a SWB SIII

I didn't think that the solid lines were normally that flexible?

Which reminds me, I will need to get teh tools to redo my ambulance's lines!

Originally Posted by Phoenix

I didn't think that the solid lines were normally that flexible?

Which reminds me, I will need to get teh tools to redo my ambulance's lines!

Hmm, I assumed you just purchased them rolled up but pre-cut to the correct length, then unrolled and bent them to fit... but then you know what they say about assuming things!

Steel "bundy" tube comes in straight lengths which are then cut, fittings threaded on and the ends flared. Bundy tubing is resistant to bending and the purists will bend them with a bending tool.

There is also annealed copper tubing which comes coiled and which is frequently used for brake lines. The problem with the copper is that, being soft is less resistant to the frequent pressure cycles involved in braking and is far more likely to rupture with fatigue than the plated steel bundy tubing. If copper was best for automotive brake lines, then it would be used as OEM by car manufacturers.

Most brake service centres will make replacement brake pipes to suit your application using new bundy tube and fittings. You only need to take the original into the place and they'll make them up.

The problem is the 80" which has a larger diameter tube and fittings, which are harder to get.

Diana

The problem with my ambulance is that large sections have rusted away. Tube, bending tool, flaring tool and threaded pieces is what I need then

(Brakes and engine are the first thing to be attended to after chassis rust and clutch)

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

snip... The problem is the 80" which has a larger diameter tube and fittings, which are harder to get.
Diana

Hmm, I wonder if this is my next brake problem; as some of you may have noticed from a previous thread, I have recently upgraded my original 10" system to be 11", and much fun was had getting the correct backing plates, wheel cylinders, drums and shoes! I am also nearly ready to pop the rear axle back on the vehicle and was starting to think ahead to the break lines... I was hoping that basically I now have a complete 'standard' 11" 80" system... but maybe the word 'standard' is a bit off!

The steel brake line also comes in the roll. You can just buy it by the metre, its not expensive.

I rebraked my 109 and it really isnt a difficult job, but you need to get used to doing good double flares on the ends. For larger radius bends I just did it by hand, though most of them I did as sharper bends using a mandrel bender for brake line.

All of the fittings and lines I bought from BrakePro, and they were excellent to deal with. The bender and double flare tool I bought from Blackwoods.

Originally Posted by TeZZaP

Hmm, I wonder if this is my next brake problem; as some of you may have noticed from a previous thread, I have recently upgraded my original 10" system to be 11", and much fun was had getting the correct backing plates, wheel cylinders, drums and shoes! I am also nearly ready to pop the rear axle back on the vehicle and was starting to think ahead to the break lines... I was hoping that basically I now have a complete 'standard' 11" 80" system... but maybe the word 'standard' is a bit off!

I would be changing the whole set of lines to the later 3/16" pipe and fittings to suit the 11" fronts.

You may find that the 11" rears lock up too quickly on your 80" so you may need a brake proportioning valve. You could consider having 11" fronts and 10" rears.

What master cylinder are you going to use? With the original master cylinder you may run out of pedal before the the brakes are fully applied. It will mean that you have to regularly adjust the shoes, more than you would on the 10" brakes. Otherwise you will have to adapt a long wheelbase master cylinder.

Diana

Diana,

'copper' brake tubing is used in the UK because of corrosion problems due to the rock salt used on the roads during the winter (for de-icing). It is actually a copper nickel alloy (Kunifer is one trade name from memory) and there are no problems using it for brake lines.
I'm not aware of any manufacturers using it as standard but why would they ? It would add extra cost.

In the UK you can buy complete sets of 'copper' brake lines for most classic cars, they usually have brass tube nuts and flare nuts. Unfortunately they are not 'legal' here and will fail a roadworthy I'm led to believe (although I found a 'copper' line on my Series II).
A company called Namrick can supply the tubing, nuts and also complete kits.
NAMRICK : BRAKING SYSTEM


I remember an interesting solution by SAAB where on the old 99's they ran the steel brake lines inside the car (under the carpet). It meant that there had to be connections through the bulkhead but all the brake lines were kept in the dry.....


Colin