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Thread: Cam Pulley Markings

  1. #1
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    Question Cam Pulley Markings

    I put my crank pulley at TDC before removing the pulley and timing cover so I could check my valve timing.
    I found the marks on the cam pulley did not match the manual description nor the actual offset shown on page 12-32.
    Unfortunately the valve timing was 180' out as I didn't check on the cam lobes position so I couldn't tell if I had timed it correctly.
    Can anyone confirm if the cam pulley I have is correct and which markings to use.
    There looks to be a pop mark on one of the teeth but being a little off center it could just be an accidental mark - not sure 100%
    Then there is a larger square looking indentation slightly lower than the teeth but both marks don't match the manual.
    The only definate mark is the keyway pop mark.
    The manual also mentions that the chain should be taught if pulley is fitted on the marked keyway - but how taught do they mean - mine was reasonable but a slight bit of slack.
    They also mention to use the different key slots if the chain is not taught enough but then how would you use the outer mark which would no longer correspond? Confusing as hell to me.
    Hope one of you can shed some light - I'm off to bed now.
    Pictures below


    Last edited by CapeLandy; 13th January 2009 at 06:04 AM. Reason: spelling
    Defender Kalahari 2006 (300 TDi)
    2008 Puma 110 - sold
    1973 Ser III 109" - sold

  2. #2
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    after a massive responce from the forum.....

    I decided to find a cam sprocket matching the manual which I got very cheap second hand from the breakers. they did also have one sprocket that matched mine but the manual I have does not cover that type.
    I just hope the chain won't complain about the new wear pattern if any on the teeth - looks still good in my opinion.
    Let's hope I can get the marks in lign such that the drive side tesion is sufficient. If not I still don't understand the concept of selecting the next keyway but then the mark ligning up with the bolt hole in the block is no longer in place?
    Hope someone who is familiar can share their experience with me.
    Cheers James
    Defender Kalahari 2006 (300 TDi)
    2008 Puma 110 - sold
    1973 Ser III 109" - sold

  3. #3
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    There are six keyways in the cam gear for a reason. They will each give you slightly different timing. You need to select the best one. I don't know if SIII engines are different, but on a SII/SIIA engine, you time the cam via the exhaust peak mark on the flywheel. This is meant to align when the number one exhaust valve is open at it's maximum. This is found while using a dial indicator. When I rebulit my engine, it took me nearly two hours to get the camshaft timing perfect, as it happened to have the best timing on the sixth keyway that I tried.

    The 180 deg out would mean that you would have been timing the cam to number four instead of number one. Rotate the crank 360 deg and the cam will be back on number one.

    Aaron.

  4. #4
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    Thanks mate.
    I don't have an inspection cover on my flywheel so I will have to use the correct cam pulley rather than looking on the flywheel.
    How tight did the chain have to be on the drive side without pulling back the crank?

    Regards James
    Defender Kalahari 2006 (300 TDi)
    2008 Puma 110 - sold
    1973 Ser III 109" - sold

  5. #5
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    There is a tensioner in the system, so there is no slack anywhere. When timing an engine, only rotate the engine forwards, to get rid of any backlash.

    Did you get a new timing chain? They do stretch. To check for stretch, wrap the timing chain around the cam gear. Pinch it tight at the bottom. If you can get any movement at the top of the cam gear, the timing chain is stretched.

    Aaron.

  6. #6
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    fitted

    I decided to make another plan so I first fitted the correct sprocket and set the cam to correct position. I then refitted the original sproket with the strange marks and turned onto each of the 6 keys until I found the tightest fit, marked the key, removed and rechecked with the other sprocket that nothing had shifted and then finally refitted the old sproket, chain and tensioner.
    After all that I had a stiff whisky and off to bed to dream of a more powerful series
    Defender Kalahari 2006 (300 TDi)
    2008 Puma 110 - sold
    1973 Ser III 109" - sold

  7. #7
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    Update

    After refitting all the bits I took her for a run but same as before.
    Maybe I am just trying to look for lost power that's just not there to begin with.
    I remember after overhaul a few years back I had some Weber guys dyno test and tune her and got 37kW at the rear wheels.
    I also did a compression test: +- 130 PSi with no oil and 140 PSi with some oil added into the cylinders but all were pretty consistent figures (low comp. head)

    I also noted that there is a very quick timing advance on the vacuum advance when I rev even slightly - new vacuum advance unit fitted about 6 months ago.
    I noticed this by the wire that enters the dizzy moving considerably when blipping the throttle. I have a wire directly through the gap in the dizzy cover as the proper fitting was rubbish.
    When I remove the vacuum hose and rev there is no movement - should the mechanical centrifugal advance also be noticed in the same way/movement??
    Thanks
    James
    Defender Kalahari 2006 (300 TDi)
    2008 Puma 110 - sold
    1973 Ser III 109" - sold

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