Thread: Quick Fuel Tank Question

Not sure what you are trying to do exactly but I am on to my second tank rebuild. the first I used a tank sealer which was suggested on the forum just a tip DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY the second I have completely desoldered the tank silver soldered the holes and I will resolder as soon as time permits.

The saddle is soldered to the tank, with dobs about the size of a 20c coin (about 6-10 of them from memory), and does come off. Well, it did in my case.

Dirt and water get between the saddle and tank, and you get a nice little canyon rusting along the lower front and rear edges of both.


I have heard of people re-joining with silicone afterward, but just make sure water won't get back in between the 2 skins again.

your second skin is usually soldered/sweated on. If you really clean your tank of fuel you can heat the sticky section to remove. Doesn't have to be red hot just aply a bit of presure and heat. A butane torch is enough. Remember it is a fuel tank KABOOM.

Thanks everybody, I was hoping it was just stuck as I am not sure how to inspect the tank properly with the saddle in place.

If I can't source a reasonable 2nd hand tank tomorrow I will just clean this one up a bit, do what I can to see where it is leaking and re-install it. I need the vehicle for work on Tuesday and looks like I have bitten off more than I can chew!

Oh the memories of Landy ownership are flooding back now!

Cheers,

Nathanial

Originally Posted by MajorNeb

Thanks everybody, I was hoping it was just stuck as I am not sure how to inspect the tank properly with the saddle in place.

If I can't source a reasonable 2nd hand tank tomorrow I will just clean this one up a bit, do what I can to see where it is leaking and re-install it. I need the vehicle for work on Tuesday and looks like I have bitten off more than I can chew!

Oh the memories of Landy ownership are flooding back now!

Cheers,

Nathanial

To make the tank safe, you can steam it for a couple of hours, place a water container on a heat source, stove, open fire, whatever place a hose in the lid and get the water boiling and run the hose into the fuel tank with the outlet at the bottom so fluid and steam can drain out. Or wash out tank with water and detergent, then fill almost full, so the water is not in contact with the area you are welding, but you only have a small air space, dont risk applying a flame without doing above, Regards Frank.

Well I found a 1.5'in hairline crack that I have repaired with some tank repairer putty. The crack is about 3/4 the way up the side so that explains why it didn't leak all the time.

I will see how it goes. I have re-fitted it to the vehicle for now.

I will source a tank second hand and restore it myself in time. Then I will know for sure its a good one.

Cheers,

Nathanial

if using a flame to repair petrol tank rig up the tank so that you have one inlet and one outlet and use compressed air to blow in, if there is any fuel vapour in the tank it will burn off at the outlet, wash tank first and keep other combustibles and face away from outlet, i have seen this in action with flames coming out the outlet which burnt off in about 15 seconds and no fear from the repairer .

I repaired the fuel tank on my SI. When wire brushed, it had a hole that I could put my fist through, aswell as many small pin holes. It was amazing that the stone guard was holding the rust in, to allow only a small leak.

Before melting the sloder to remove the stone guard, I drained the remains of the tank, and then blew it out with copious amounts of air. I then left the cap and sender unit off while I heated it to melt the solder to remove the stone guard. Flames were seen to exit from the holes and from the petrol soaked rust. It did not explode, as the large holes (filler and sender unit) prevented it from pressurising.

To fix the holes, I re-skinned the bottem and ends of the tank, over the top of the old skin, with a thin sheet of steel. I silver soldered this in place. This meant that when I soft soldered the stone guard back into place and re-sealed the original seams, the repair panel did not become un-soldered.

Above all, be careful, and do not get in the way of a flame that could ignite without any notice. Conduct all activities on a clear concrete pad.

Aaron.