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Thread: Series 3 Rebuild.

  1. #91
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJWA View Post
    I don't think it's military, it's yellow inside, the chassis and body look standard. I'll check those plates tomorrow just in case. I wouldn't want to defile an EMLR! It was a 6cyl 2.6, but it has been converted to a Holden 6. The back diff is a salisbury. Took it for a drive today, oh what fun, the brakes don't work too well after removing the vacvuum servo. There is no 2nd gear and the clutch slips too. I'm going to use it as a "tip run" vehicle.
    If it had tool holders on the mudguard it is probably ex military.

    All lwb Series 3 had the salisbury diff.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #92
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    I've taken a photo of the plates, nothing that says Military or Army on it.

    I've finished rebuilding the front axle and hubs, the firewall is mounted and Louisa has started transferring bits from the old to the new. Louisa has finished the Safari roof (she insisted I take a photo ). She coated the underside of the top skin with thick underbody tar. We're hoping this will help shield heat and reduce any vibrations or rattles.
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  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJWA View Post
    I've taken a photo of the plates, nothing that says Military or Army on it.

    I've finished rebuilding the front axle and hubs, the firewall is mounted and Louisa has started transferring bits from the old to the new. Louisa has finished the Safari roof (she insisted I take a photo ). She coated the underside of the top skin with thick underbody tar. We're hoping this will help shield heat and reduce any vibrations or rattles.
    I like the tropical roof - I always thought they were a good idea - I don't know why they stopped using them.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #94
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    Nice job Louisa!

    Looks like a civvy then with the added bonus of some tool holders

    Thanks for posting TJ,

    Cheers Charlie

  5. #95
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    Louisa did one day of preparation and one day of painting which resulted in this... We're going to use this one when the Disco engine is being transplanted. By the way, that puddle of oil underneath is from a visitors car...NOT the Landy!
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  6. #96
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    Looks great, TJ.

    Tell Louisa we'll get our car ready for whenever she is ready to come to Perth. Does it have to be army green, or will she do other colours?

  7. #97
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    We have used that version of Wattyl "Bronze Olive" (Army Green) because it is self priming, exterior acrylic, low sheen so it hides dents and scratches, and it is widely available. It is a colourbond colour. We're building our Landy's so that we can take them through dense bush, through rivers, over rocks, basically anywhere they're capable of going and not having to worry about getting scratches on them. With this paint it will not be out of the question to get home, find some scratches after cleaning down and then blowing some new paint straight over them. Plus the Army Green vehicles seem to look alright to me when they've got dents and scratches, it looks like they've been used for what they were made for! When I see a Gold Landy with dents and scratches, it looks as though it's been mistreated! If you go for one of the gold colours it will require base metal preparation, a good etch primer, a good spray gun and an enclosed shed free of dust. Louisa has lightly sanded down panels until the existing paint no longer flakes off then painted straight over the top with a $30 spray gun and $20 of paint!
    On the good SWB she's been using an etch primer first as that will be our daily drive and fun on the weekends.

  8. #98
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    Sounds sensible all 'round.

    Ours will be gold because that's its original colour and I have changed colours on cars before and it is an enormous effort that I don't want to expend.

    I have a shed full of dust, a cheap gun, and some S&S Paints acrylic which cost several hundred dollars. I hope we can get a good result by laying on five coats or so, sanding between each coat, and buffing the top one afterwards. I have two teenage sons who are on holidays at present.

  9. #99
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    Sounds like a good project for your sons. Louisa has been applying 1 coat of etch primer then 6 coats of Bronze Olive to the good SWB with very light sands inbetween, we have that completely stripped and have had each part sodablasted to remove the old paint (expensive). The LWB she did the other day was just 2 coats of Bronze Olive straight over the old paint! We'll see how it goes.

  10. #100
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    I really shouldn't talk to you. This got me thinking this morning and I managed to convince myself to go Limestone instead of Bahama Gold, so now we have even more work to do...

    I need to stay away from people like you who so flippantly discuss paint colours and work...

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