Series III (burned) rebuild

**lane** · 5th July 2009, 06:32 PM

Originally Posted by chazza

On steel it must be sand-blasted, or soaked in molasses solution to completely remove all of the rust and then treated with a rust converter. Despite what the rust converters say on their labels, in my experience they do not penetrate rust much at all, so it is better to get all of the rust out of the pits first.

I haven't heard of molasses solution. I presume it's available at paint suppliers?

Looked up Penetrol and it sounds miraculous. Will definitely grab some. Ref.: The Flood Company Australia

Originally Posted by chazza

Give the harness a bend and a shake, whilst listening for any cracking in the insulation and feeling for the same thing on single wires. If they feel supple and look in good condition they probably are.

Sadly, I think it all feels a bit brittle, but hand-making a new harness seems like overkill at this point. I think I'll try it with the old one and if it proves unreliable I'll face reality then.

Edit: Thanks for the detailed and useful replies!

**chazza** · 6th July 2009, 08:16 AM

G'day Lano,
You can buy molasses from stockfeed agents - dilute it 1 part in 10 with water and place it in a plastic container. The warmer the solution the quicker it will work. Be aware that some molasses already appears to be partly diluted - if it is very thick and flows slowly dilute as above, otherwise make the ratio about 1:5.

If you like I can send you an article I wrote about it; PM me if interested.

Be careful of the old harness if the insulation is cracking, as connecting it to a battery may cause a fire! Check out Vintage Wiring Harness on the net,

Cheers Charlie

**Shonky** · 6th July 2009, 09:44 AM

Molasses solution is made up by mixing water with molasses at 9:1.

You can buy molasses at any stock feeds supplier for about $15 per 20L bucket.

Edit: should have refreshed the page - Charlie beat me to it...

**lane** · 7th July 2009, 08:58 PM

Making progress slowly...

**lane** · 17th July 2009, 04:20 PM

Hi all,

Can anybody please tell me where to obtain the bailey channel for the front door tops for a Series III? (Preferably in Perth, but it probably doesn't matter too much).

Also, door rubbers all 'round - including the rear tailgate and top door which sits above the tailgate, and the sealing rubbers which sit between the doors and the door tops, and between the ute body and the wagon sides and likewise the roof ones, and finally the air vents under the windscreen.

Heck, it feels expensive merely writing them all out!

Cheers,
Lane.

**Grockle** · 17th July 2009, 07:34 PM

lane,I live near to Paddocks in Derbyshire,so if you struggle for bits I wouldn't mind helping re part no's etc.

**chazza** · 18th July 2009, 08:44 AM

Don't know anything specific Lano but try Clark Rubber; I know they used to advertise about an industrial section to cater for English cars. Ring first and take samples in with you. The air vents and the tailgate should be easy to match I would think as would the rubber between the door top and base if it is rectangular in section.

Other suspects would be Rare Spares - they once supplied me with a reproduction rear window seal for my '63, J3 Bedford so you might get lucky. They do have a fairly large catalogue of profiles.

Check Scott's Old Auto Rubber website as well.

Let us know if you strike gold because I will need to start looking for seals for my S1 soon

(record the part numbers),

Cheers Charlie

**lane** · 19th July 2009, 02:55 PM

Originally Posted by Grockle

lane,I live near to Paddocks in Derbyshire,so if you struggle for bits I wouldn't mind helping re part no's etc.

Thanks Grockle - much appreciated!

**lane** · 19th July 2009, 02:57 PM

Chazza,

Thanks for the leads. I called these blokes on Friday - Vintage Car Parts Perth WA, Vehicle Restoration Parts Perth, Reproduction Car Parts Perth, Western Australia, Rare Spares, Holden, Ford, Chrysler, Chevrolet, Toyota, Mazda, Nissan - and they have door rubbers for around $35 per door, and they are confident they can match the others also.

I think I'll try Clark Rubber also - as you'll see from the next photos, we keep removing stuff and now need even more rubbers...

Cheers,
Lane.

**lane** · 19th July 2009, 03:35 PM

OK, where to begin?

Everything is slower than one hopes, of course, but it wasn't helped by heading South for three days' hunting last weekend.

We found some rust in the rear of the chassis where the low hitch had been welded on and have been considering how to repair it. In the end Wozapinin kindly supplied the entire rear chassis section from one of his wrecks, so we have a good solution which will require the least amount of work yet the result should be excellent. See attached photo of "new" chassis section.

Wozapinin also supplied us a new front right fender (see pic), three new gear sticks to replace the burned ones, a ute cab rear section with glass - in case we decide to go to proper "ute" configuration - windscreen wipers, and a break fluid reservoir (yes!). Also, a relatively straight front bumper.

The boys have been continuing to rub back, de-rust (rotary wire brush and Ranex), and etch prime the body and other painted parts. We have now started masking up.

The big question at present is when we will get some warmer weather here in Perth in which to paint!

We still need to find an engine we can rat for accessories to fix our burned one. Hopefully Jono's Series II engine has similar bits, but I don't know how much they changed from the 'Sixties to 1977. Anybody?

Cheers,
Lane.

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