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Thread: Series III (burned) rebuild

  1. #111
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    Looking good lane, must be a good feeling when its getting close.

  2. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by lane View Post
    Yes, understood, TJ.

    Btw, do you know how yours is wired?
    A wire runs from the steering wheel fuse box (comes off the same fuse as the drivers lights switch) to one side of the reverse switch. The other side of the reverse switch then runs back towards the front of the car to a hole in the chassis where the other rear light wires go. This bunch of wires runs the length of the chassis to the rear. The reverse wire then has a junction when it exits at the other end, one wire goes up to the drivers side rear, the other to the passenger side.

  3. #113
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    By the way, I just measured the thread for the reverse switch hole (the one I marked in blue) on the gearstick mount with a tap. It is 3/8 UNF. You have a tap set?

    By the way, nice job on the alternator.

  4. #114
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    Taps

    No, I don't have a tap set. I wish I knew where my grandfather's went, because it certainly would have included those British sizes...

  5. #115
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by lane View Post
    No, I don't have a tap set. I wish I knew where my grandfather's went, because it certainly would have included those British sizes...
    I think the Yanks might get a bit upset about calling UNF British! If you have two nuts for the switch you do not need to tap the hole, just put a nut on both sides.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #116
    malrv1 Guest
    That is a PBR VH44 booster. After market and used on many cars. They work quite well in a single line system. You might want to check there is no fluid in the booster diapragm they can suck fuid through the seals if worn.

  7. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I think the Yanks might get a bit upset about calling UNF British! If you have two nuts for the switch you do not need to tap the hole, just put a nut on both sides.

    John
    Thanks John - had exactly the same thought...

    Btw, why would Land Rover be using a US standard for some bolts (and Whitworth for others...)? Or is Whitworth not British either?

  8. #118
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lane View Post
    Thanks John - had exactly the same thought...

    Btw, why would Land Rover be using a US standard for some bolts (and Whitworth for others...)? Or is Whitworth not British either?
    The Series Landrover, starting in 1948, used entirely British threads, British Standard Whitworth, BSF, BA and BSP (and occasionally other odd types). In 1949, Britain, the USA and Canada agreed to change to the Unified Thread Standard, a set of thread standards based on US threads (and introduced as a result of all the problems encountered during the war with incompatible threads!).

    Rover started to change the threads used with the Series 2, starting by phasing out BSF and replacing it with UNF. The relatively few Whitworth and BA fittings stayed for a long time, and even the last Series 3 still had a few BSF, even though by this time metric conversion had started.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #119
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    I have to say, after working on Peugeots (metric) for many, many, years, the imperial sizes are a breath of fresh air. One can identify a 9/16 or a 3/8 or a 5/8 in a flash, whereas the difference between a 10 or 11 mm or between a 12 and a 13 mm is sometimes very hard to see, and the fact that they bl***y well use every size from 8mm through to 17mm without any apparent logic only adds to the misery.

    I find it supremely ironic that the decimal era coincides so perfectly with the digital era (counting in 8s). It's surely divine retribution for the unscientific stupidity of the decimal system.

  10. #120
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    We have reversing lights.

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