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Thread: Series III (burned) rebuild

  1. 11th March 2010, 02:33 AM #161
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    Lane,

    Nice work on your 'restoration'.

    I bought a great wheel brace from FWD in Brisbane some time back. It's a two-piece job made from stainless. One straight bar, one with a socket either end. Two sizes. Can't recall what size. Holes through the two sockets for the cross-bar. Very solid piece of kit. Cost about $40 I think. Packs up neatly and fits the standard clips behind your seat if you run them.

    As far as the bailey channel goes, do yourself a favour and get a pair of the Rocky Mountain door tops. Windows open both ways. All rubber channel. No steel, therefore no rust. Better latches that allow you to lock them from outside (perfect for me as my DS door lock doesn't like to play the game from outside). I think they cost me about $500 from FWD again including freight across to WA.

    James
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  2. 27th March 2010, 08:41 PM #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by banjo View Post
    Wheres the pics..


    .
    Hi Banjo,

    Yep, I was too surprised to think of the camera. But I did some searches and realised that there don't seem to be any photos online of the memorial so I'll duck up there again soon and take some photots for those who can't get out there. It's a long drive in a Landy from NSW.

    Speaking of Landies in NSW, here's some more photos from our trip.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-disc...ml#post1215602
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  3. 14th June 2010, 04:29 PM #163
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    Hi guys. Took the Landy up near the Lower Helena Diversion Dam last Monday and after a half hour or so she conked out. Did the standard troubleshooting and found she had no spark, which I traced to the electronic ignition module I had fitted. The live wire leading to the module was worn through and shorting inside the dizzy. The earth wire is also worn through inside the dizzy. Fortunately we were able to repair the wire and the module was OK, so she started again and we got home OK, however I would really like to understand why the wires wore through their shields. Could it be the movement of the ignition advance? If so, what kind of design is it to have wires that sit there and wear out after a few hours running time?

    Also, today I tried to start it and no go - checked the spark and there isn't any. But the wire is not shorting out, so I suspect the ignition module itself has failed - maybe from the shorting last week.

    Any ideas?
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  4. 14th June 2010, 04:41 PM #164
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    Pic - you can see the worn through earth wire - and the repaired live wire.
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  5. 26th June 2010, 09:55 PM #165
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    No ideas, anybody? Hasn't anybody seen worn through wires in the dizzy like that?
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  6. 27th June 2010, 09:48 PM #166
    TJWA
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    Quote Originally Posted by lane View Post
    No ideas, anybody? Hasn't anybody seen worn through wires in the dizzy like that?
    Is that a conversion kit or something? If the metal below it moves with vacuum then I think you're right. It could also have moved to the centre and rubbed on the shaft. You could elevate the wires on the sidewall holding them in place with some dabs of silicone.
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  7. 29th June 2010, 02:13 PM #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJWA View Post
    Is that a conversion kit or something?
    Yep.

    If the metal below it moves with vacuum then I think you're right. It could also have moved to the centre and rubbed on the shaft. You could elevate the wires on the sidewall holding them in place with some dabs of silicone.
    Good idea the silicon. I've ordered a new unit and I'll fit it more carefully this time - with silicon.
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  8. 19th August 2010, 07:34 PM #168
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    Fuel guage sender units

    Hi all,

    Mine are bung - the original and the one in the long-range tank. Rovacraft want $65 each for them. Anybody have any secondhand ones about or any ideas on alternatives?

    All suggestions gratefully received.

    Cheers,
    Lane.

    Edit: I presume the long-range tank is a wagon tank, as it appears to have a very similar sender unit to the front one.
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  9. 19th August 2010, 08:21 PM #169
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    Gearbox removal

    Hi again,

    We have to replace our gearbox, and I am wondering if it might be just as easy, or easier, to pull motor and gearbox out as one unit, replace the gearbox, and re-fit both as a single unit again. I really don't fancy removing the seat bases, undoing all those bell-housing bolts while the unit is in the car, and then wrestling the gearbox out by hand, then doing it all in reverse.

    Any advice gratefully anticipated!

    Regards,
    Lane.

    Edit: Looks like it's a bad idea: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-tech...r-removal.html
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  10. 19th August 2010, 09:02 PM #170
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    Fairy overdrive to a good home

    I have a Fairy (I think) overdrive which was given to me in pieces in a box. It may not be complete, although I think there's more than a whole unit there, so if anybody wants it they're welcome to it.
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