Disc Brake Conversion.

Simply putting coiler axles on is the simplest solution, but as Ben comments, the major problem is that the trackrod occupies the same space as the leaf springs.

There are a variety of solutions to this that have been used - the most commonly used one overseas is to weld a step in the track rod, but this sort of option is frowned on here.

The simplest is to use a spacer between the spring and the axle, perhaps use increased spring camber or longer shackles to compensate, or you can, as Ben suggests, use a late swivel set up and move the track rod to the front.

All of these solutions beg the question - why not follow the simplest solution of all - sell the leaf spring vehicle and buy a coiler if you are so enamoured of disc brakes.

While I appreciate the advantages of disc brakes, the original brakes are quite effective, and I would be inclined to simply fix them.

John

No that looks fine Ben, but that has both axles swapped. He was only looking at doing the front....

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Originally Posted by Psimpson7

No that looks fine Ben, but that has both axles swapped. He was only looking at doing the front....

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I agree that only doing one would be daft, but I could not see anyone suggesting just to swap one wider axle in.

As an aside - the forestrover had a 78" (ish) front track and a 67" rear track - needed so the front wheels had a decent turning circle. It didn't look daft, and apparently was fine on-road up to its 45mph top speed, however it was prone to rolling on side slopes offroad.

JD - I have seen conversions where the front axle has just been rotated sufficiently for the standard track rod to clear. Not sure if a DC propshaft is then needed...

The biggest disadvantage with drums are when you need to drive through water offroad... I had a very scary moment on a steep hill climb after a creek crossing - loss of traction - foot on clutch and brakes to quickly shift to reverse low to go back down - before I could blink the landie had slid back into the creek - despite me standing on the brake as hard as humanly possible.

Interesting, although I think the tractor tyres may have hidden any wayward handling traits specific to geometry:D

Look at the moaning re the track differences on the v8 70 series cruiser...!

I am actually quite interested in the result and if it works as could be tempted to do something similar.

Rgds
Pete

Going by those driving instructions on YouTube, driving a short distance with your brakes partially applied can effectively dry them out after a water crossing, would this stop what happended to you Ben or am I on a different tangent?

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Originally Posted by series3

Going by those driving instructions on YouTube, driving a short distance with your brakes partially applied can effectively dry them out after a water crossing, would this stop what happended to you Ben or am I on a different tangent?

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You need to drive ~1km after a creek crossing to dry the drums properly (depending on how hard you apply the brakes). Would not have helped me as the climb was immediately after the crossing.

How could spending days changing the rear and front axles out, having to grind, weld, modify to get them to fit and then get them approved be as easy as taking off the wheel hub and brake line on either side and bolting a caliper base and disc on instead within a few hours???

Alrighty, from what I have learnt so far I have 2 options to change over to disc brakes.

Change Axles.
Advantages: Less cost, wider track, end up with front and rear disc brakes.
Disadvantages: More work and time, have to replace bearings in donor axles, require modifications. Have to do both axles. Will have to install proportioning valve. Possible modifications to master cylinder.

Install kit.
Advantages: No modifications required, no need to replace bearings as axles already fully rebuilt, just bolt on. A lot less time. Can be done easily antime once car is rebuilt. Pre-engineered.
Disadvantages: Cost.

I'm going to get some quotes for kits and I'll post back.

Heystee Automotive kit for the front axle with a 8'' power servo included is $2675 delivered to Australia.

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Originally Posted by TJWA

Pre-engineered.

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You have proof of this??? All off the shelf kits are from overseas and have only been sold in limited numbers here. I douby they would be easier to engineer then an axle swap.

Personally I think I could cut off the coil mounts, weld on some spring pads, and fit the axles in the same amount of time someone could fit an aftermarket kit. Some kits need grinding of the swivel housing.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

......
As an aside - the forestrover had a 78" (ish) front track and a 67" rear track - needed so the front wheels had a decent turning circle. It didn't look daft, and apparently was fine on-road up to its 45mph top speed, however it was prone to rolling on side slopes offroad.

JD - I have seen conversions where the front axle has just been rotated sufficiently for the standard track rod to clear. Not sure if a DC propshaft is then needed...

The biggest disadvantage with drums are when you need to drive through water offroad...........

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1. As an aside - Citroens from 1955 to 1975 had a front track about six inches wider than the back - and handling was considered excellent up to their top speed in some models of about 190kph. But they were a real pain on rutted unsealed roads, as the back would keep making sudden moves side to side as one rear wheel then the other moved into the ruts the front was following. Not good on an offroad vehicle.

2. Rotating the axle to clear the trackrod may have a slight advantage on the prop shaft joints - the nose of the diff is higher so the angle at the TC is less, and in fact the angle at the diff becomes larger - coil axles have the diff pointing at the TC so any change makes the angle larger (but watch the sump).

But rotating the axle also changes the castor angle - and I am not sure how much you can play with this without steering problems. There is some leeway, as the castor angle changes with spring deflection on the coil setup (nowhere near as much with leaf springs), but I don't know how much you can get away with. Perhaps a combination of small pad spacers and a small axle rotation?

3. I am well aware of the water problem, as I have been driving drum braked vehicles through water for fifty years - but have never had the experience you quote. You just drive on the assumption the brakes won't work after driving through water, and dry them as soon as possible.

John