Thread: Oil leak from crank/main pulley

G'day All, you could just remove the Crankshaft pulley and purchase a speedi-sleeve to suit the crank shaft pulley, or you could PM me your email address and I will send you some pix on how to what the military did with their Series engines anyway cheers Dennis
ps If you go with the speedi-sleeve you will at least have to remove the radiator,,.

you can do it without pulling the radiator providing the seal case has already been modified.

undo the big nut take the pully off then look at the seal, if its got screws in it your laughing, undo them pull the shield pull the seal and replace.

reverse and its done.

I like to unbolt the fan prior to lifting the radiator if you have to go that way.

Originally Posted by Dinty

purchase a speedi-sleeve to suit the crank shaft pulley...ps If you go with the speedi-sleeve you will at least have to remove the radiator,,.

We were counting on the need to remove the radiator, in fact the question was whether we were going to remove the grill panel as well. But if it's just the radiator we need to remove that's probably ideal.

Also, what is the speedy-sleeve? What does it replace if it is not a standard fitment.

Cheers,
Tom.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

undo the big nut take the pully off then look at the seal, if its got screws in it your laughing, undo them pull the shield pull the seal and replace.

The replacement seal we've got doesn't have screws, and the existing one is hard to see without removing the radiator, but at this stage its looking like it will require the entire timing case to be removed, no?

a speedi sleeve is just a thin tube of metal that you press onto the crank pully to refresh the sealing surface

usually the rubber seal will pick up a little bit of crud and that will spend its life trapped in the rubber of the seal and neatly grind away the crank scoring it so when you put the new seal in it lasts about as long as the plot interest in a porn movie.

you dont need to remove the grill panel just the radiator, removing the grill panel also required removing the wiring harness that runs through it. which means working on lucas landrover electrics.....

G'day All, after removing the Sump and T/case cover remove the rivets from the T/case cover

set up the T/case cover under a drill press,

then tap holes to suit the screws

the finished (well almost) product, this is what the Military did RAEME lads on the Series 2/2A 4cyl engines

hope thats simple enough for you, clean all gasket faces, fit new seal, fit T/case cover to engine, then sump, the sump has to go on last cheers Dennis
ps these are pix that I took some time ago, and I emailed them to the S2 club forum in the UK, I just copied them back from the site,,.

Thanks for the input so far.

I've removed the radiator, fanbelt and fan. The issue now is actually getting the starter dog, or 'the big nut' off. I've tried a shifting spanner large enough to fit over it, and over that I've put a length of pipe to give better leverage. At this stage though, that leverage is only managing to move the car. It's in gear and we very nearly turned the crank far enough to drop the car off the stands.

Any advice on what to try next? I'll be looking at buying a proper 1 - 11/16th inch spanner, but somehow I think I'll still be facing the problem of the nut having more tension in it than the inertia of the engine - it keeps edging forward in gear.