Thread: My attempt at spring bushes (still going)

Originally Posted by Timj

There is an interesting difference between the Fulcrum (SuperPro) and the Polybush. Fulcrum supply white grease and it gets put on every surface where the bush contacts the metal. This means basically that the bush itself does not contribute to the torsional control of the spring in the same way the standard bush does. The Polybush ones actually specify that you should not use any lubricant so I am assuming that when tightened up they will provide torsion resistance in the same way as standard.
TimJ.

I was told that you only grease them if they squeak. (Apparently they can do that) Otherwise you just install them as is.. The ones I put onto my SWB 10 years ago didn't squeak, so they don't have the grease, and seemed ok from what I can tell..

Wolf

I just spoke with Fulcrum here in Melbourne and they have given me the part number SPF2154K (x3 required). They also said there is multiple listings for the "spring shackle upper" which comes in both a 30mm and a 38mm.

I can't purchase directly from Fulcrum and have been asked to contact the local Bursons who gave me a price of $42.90/kit.

Anyone know if I need the 30 or 38mm "spring shackle upper" for a series 2a (1971)? The vehicle is a couple of hours from here at the moment........

Cheers,
JRW

I just ordered from local fulcrum guys a 38mm kit that just has 2 bushes and 2 tubes for $60 so thats same as originall bushes basicaly. They even took the measuements of the other orginal new one i had left so id say if yours is a lwb 2a it prob is the 38mm bush neo. but time will tell, they get here fri.

Long wheel base is 38mm, short wheel base is 30mm. They are only different at the front as far as I know. Rear should be the same 30mm.

TimJ.

ok finally all back together with the new single piece poly bush. i still had to cut it in half to fit it but its all done now...

I'm probably a bit late with this advice, but what I found good for removing the chassis bush was to drill the rubber and remove the centre, then score two lines on the outer steel shell with a hack-saw about 3mm apart. Then grind a centre punch into a mini-chisel and punch out the 3mm section between the two score marks. Given the small size of the chisel, there's quite a lot of force over a small area, so it doesn't require heavy belting. Once this strip has been removed, use the mini chisel to lift the edges a bit and fold the outer ring in on itself.

thanks Michael2, i did a similar thing but that was to cut a section out about 5ml wide then bent the sides in and it nearly fell out. was hard going though hacksawing with the saw upside down and only getting about 50ml in cut length.

A cheap air chisel set comes with a cutter that would do an amazingly fast job.
Without any hard work

Originally Posted by Michael2

I'm probably a bit late with this advice, but what I found good for removing the chassis bush was to drill the rubber and remove the centre, then score two lines on the outer steel shell with a hack-saw about 3mm apart. Then grind a centre punch into a mini-chisel and punch out the 3mm section between the two score marks. Given the small size of the chisel, there's quite a lot of force over a small area, so it doesn't require heavy belting. Once this strip has been removed, use the mini chisel to lift the edges a bit and fold the outer ring in on itself.