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Thread: Rebuilding the 2.25 Petrol - advice needed

  1. 24th January 2010, 07:31 AM #1
    ashhhhh Guest

    Rebuilding the 2.25 Petrol - advice needed

    Hey all

    I picked up my spare engine yesterday and have been stripping it down. (3 bearing, "902..." prefix)

    It was seized when I picked it up, it was due to water getting in through the inlet manifold and sitting in cylinder 3...
    Ive cleaned up that up and have the thing freed up and turning nicely.

    I'm after advice about how far to go with the rebuild though, what generally needs to be done on these engines and what can be left alone.

    I basically want to do whatever is needed to have a nice, as (or better than) new engine to put in my S3.

    I had planned to rebore and fit new pistons, get the head done (stainless work for ULP, maybe gas-flowed?) and I assume I should get the crankshaft done as well.

    Ive been reading the Turner Engineering page and like the sound of their power improvements (9:1 and flowed head) - is there anyone is Australia that does similar work?
    I don't want to lose any reliability/lifespan but would appreciate a little more power!

    Id like to hear from anyone who's done this, where you sourced parts, lessons you took away etc.

    So far im loving the simplicity of this engine, really easy to work on!

    Ash
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  2. 24th January 2010, 07:50 AM #2
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
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    its turning over?

    a little oil in the bores put the head on start it and run it, compression test and if the compressions ok on all pots rebuild complete...

    any engine parts supplier should be able to get you compatible pistons and rings as well as a number for a grind shop that can give the crank and bores some attention.

    getting the head ground for inserts and going stainless valves and seats is a good idea as they generally last forever and will let you run LPG and unleaded without hassle.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  3. 24th January 2010, 08:38 AM #3
    ashhhhh Guest
    Ive got it unseized but it definitely needs a rebore.
    Cylinder 3 is badly marked from having water in there.

    I'm happy to spend some money on it, the idea is to have a schmick engine to swap in to replace my (pretty good) one.

    Anything that is worn or even vaguely dodgy will be replaced/refurbished.

    I have just found that a couple of the welsh plugs are rusted through too, so already that will need doing!
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  4. 24th January 2010, 08:56 AM #4
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    You can almost guarantee that the ally core plugs will be gone too.

    I Knocked a couple out yesterday. Nice hard shiny aluminium on the surface, absolutely rotten powder underneath.

    There's 4 small ones under the rocker gear, one large at the back of the head, 2 small ones below the exhaust manifold, and another large one just above the starter.

    Do them all.
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  5. 24th January 2010, 09:40 AM #5
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
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    when you get done with it I know someone thats in the market for a 2.25P if your interested in selling.

    how badlys it marked you might get lucky and get away with a home hone jobbie.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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  6. 24th January 2010, 12:52 PM #6
    ashhhhh Guest
    OK can anyone tell me where this debris is likely to have come from?
    I found it while cleaning the sump...
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  7. 24th January 2010, 01:08 PM #7
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
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    if it was in the top I'd have said guide stems and valve collets..

    in the bottom end it could be fragments of timing chain or bearing shell from a previous engine failure.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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  8. 24th January 2010, 02:26 PM #8
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    Looks too small to be bearing fragments, only about 7mm in diameter.


    Maybe the oil pump relief plunger.
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  9. 24th January 2010, 02:28 PM #9
    chazza
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashhhhh View Post
    Hey all

    I'm after advice about how far to go with the rebuild though, what generally needs to be done on these engines and what can be left alone.

    I basically want to do whatever is needed to have a nice, as (or better than) new engine to put in my S3.

    I had planned to rebore and fit new pistons, get the head done (stainless work for ULP, maybe gas-flowed?) and I assume I should get the crankshaft done as well.

    Ash
    Sounds like the basis of a good plan

    Other parts which will need close inspection and perhaps measuring/reconditioning are: push rods; oil pump; timing gears and chain; camshaft and followers; rockers and shaft; distributor; carburettor; dynamo; starter motor; ignition system, cooling system, etc. There is no point having a brand new engine with old bits attached to it!

    If you have an outside micrometer you can measure the crank journals yourself and decide whether it needs grinding. Visual inspection of the camshaft and measuring the lobe from the heel to the apex of the cams will at least show if they are all the same - if not chuck it!

    Have fun! Re-building an engine properly can be most enjoyable; budget for about $2000 upwards,

    Cheers Charlie
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