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Thread: suspension overhaul - parabolics vs standard leaves

  1. #1
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    suspension overhaul - parabolics vs standard leaves

    Hi all,

    My 1979 LWB GS is like driving without any suspension. The whole back end will skip off the ground when you drive over a speed bump and the front end makest he steering wheel jar!!! Maybe a new dampener as well??

    So I was wondering whether there is a cheap fix job I can do to the existing suspension, or whether upgrading to parabolics might be a big improvement.

    Perhaps the Army leafs are super rigid to carry greater loads. Someone once said to take a few leafs out, but I would ideally like to be able to take the vehicle off-road without get my spine re-arranged driving over a pebble.

    Any cost ideas would be great also, and even better in Perth.

    Cheers
    Jim

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    If your springs are typical of Series Landrovers, a large part of the problem comes from the fact that the joins between the leaves are cemented with rust. The cheap ans simple solution to this is to remove each spring, one at a time and completely disassemble it by removing the centrebolt (clamp in a vice to do this) and bending the clips (heat helps).

    Each leaf is then thoroughly cleaned by wire brushing to remove all rust, and perhaps if it seems to be necessary, smoothing with wet and dry (but remove an absolute minimum of metal). Grind off ridges at the end of where the leaves slide on each other as these may limit travel. Paint the leaves and reassemble with, at a minimum, a layer of powdered graphite between the leaves. There will be arguments about using anything at all sticky between the leaves, but I would be inclined to use graphite grease. You can consider removing one leaf (3rd) from the front springs and two (3rd and 5th) from the rear if you do not plan to carry significant loads.

    Reinstall with new bushes as necessary and you will probably be pleasantly surprised with the result - and certainly a lot cheaper than parabolics. The reason that parabolic springs ride better than conventional leaf springs is that they have almost no friction between the leaves.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    This thread (and the linked threads on outerlimits) have all the info you need.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-3/4...springs-2.html

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    If your springs are typical of Series Landrovers, a large part of the problem comes from the fact that the joins between the leaves are cemented with rust. The cheap ans simple solution to this is to remove each spring, one at a time and completely disassemble it by removing the centrebolt (clamp in a vice to do this) and bending the clips (heat helps).

    Each leaf is then thoroughly cleaned by wire brushing to remove all rust, and perhaps if it seems to be necessary, smoothing with wet and dry (but remove an absolute minimum of metal). Grind off ridges at the end of where the leaves slide on each other as these may limit travel. Paint the leaves and reassemble with, at a minimum, a layer of powdered graphite between the leaves. There will be arguments about using anything at all sticky between the leaves, but I would be inclined to use graphite grease. You can consider removing one leaf (3rd) from the front springs and two (3rd and 5th) from the rear if you do not plan to carry significant loads.

    Reinstall with new bushes as necessary and you will probably be pleasantly surprised with the result - and certainly a lot cheaper than parabolics. The reason that parabolic springs ride better than conventional leaf springs is that they have almost no friction between the leaves.

    John

    thanks John, though one question (potentially dumb question). When removing springs which is the number one? top or bottom?

    Cheers
    Jim

  5. #5
    Timj is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    No 1 is the top spring. This is the main spring and the one that has the eye the bushes go into. Number 2 spring is the next one and has the loop (sometimes called a military loop) at the ends that goes loosely around the eye to stop the spring pack coming loose if the main spring breaks at the eye as can sometimes happen. So those two can't be removed but anything from there on theoretically can if you keep a combination of springs that works well for your loads etc.

    TimJ.
    Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
    Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
    Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
    Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

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