Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: One problem solved, another created...sigh

  1. #1
    ashhhhh Guest

    One problem solved, another created...sigh

    Hey all

    Ive just replaced the manifold gaskets on my 2.25L petrol and it has made a big difference to the way it runs, much better.
    I think it was blowing or sucking air somewhere.

    Anyway thats great....now my starter motor doesnt work.
    It clicks and then nothing.
    The leads to it get very hot too.

    While I was doing the gaskets I noticed the lead from the solenoid to the starter had some insulation damaged and looked a bit loose.
    I fixed the insulation and tightened it all up, I also sprayed a small amount of degreaser on the nut the lead goes to and around the end cap.

    What do you reckon in going on??

    My best guess is that some degreaser has worked its way in and is shorting or by fiddling with that nut something has come adrift internally.

    Cheers
    Ash

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,517
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ashhhhh View Post
    Hey all

    Ive just replaced the manifold gaskets on my 2.25L petrol and it has made a big difference to the way it runs, much better.
    I think it was blowing or sucking air somewhere.

    Anyway thats great....now my starter motor doesnt work.
    It clicks and then nothing.
    The leads to it get very hot too.

    While I was doing the gaskets I noticed the lead from the solenoid to the starter had some insulation damaged and looked a bit loose.
    I fixed the insulation and tightened it all up, I also sprayed a small amount of degreaser on the nut the lead goes to and around the end cap.

    What do you reckon in going on??

    My best guess is that some degreaser has worked its way in and is shorting or by fiddling with that nut something has come adrift internally.

    Cheers
    Ash
    Most likely situation is that the starter has locked in mesh, and there is insufficient torque to start moving the engine. I would remove the starter and check that it operates correctly off the engine (make sure it is securely held before applying power!), and clean the drive mechanism - make sure it is clean and dry - no oil or grease, but a bit of graphite powder. If the starter does not operate off the engine, it will be either the brushes are worn/stuck, or the bushes are worn, allowing it to "pole".

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    By tightening the nut you might have rotated the cable enough to touch metal. Rubber insulation around the cable could be perished, wire now shorted! Sometimes a teeny little backwards turn helps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hervey Bay
    Posts
    62
    Total Downloaded
    0
    my diesel started playing up like this so i went round and cleaned up all the earth points to the motor and the chassis and that worked wonders for starting and all other accesiories too.

  5. #5
    ashhhhh Guest
    Thanks to everyone.

    I'm positive something is shorting, it worked perfectly prior to me doing the gasket work - never had a problem with the starter at all.
    My battery is also brand spanking new.

    How is the motor wired internally?
    What connects (inside starter) to the bolt that the 12V lead attaches to?
    Is it possible the bolt has rotated when I tightened the nut and pulled a wire off or shorted against the inside of the case?

    Ill take it out tomorrow anyway.
    Best going up past exhaust or dropping out the bottom?

    Ash

  6. #6
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,517
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ashhhhh View Post
    Thanks to everyone.

    I'm positive something is shorting, it worked perfectly prior to me doing the gasket work - never had a problem with the starter at all.
    My battery is also brand spanking new.

    How is the motor wired internally?
    What connects (inside starter) to the bolt that the 12V lead attaches to?
    Is it possible the bolt has rotated when I tightened the nut and pulled a wire off or shorted against the inside of the case?

    Ill take it out tomorrow anyway.
    Best going up past exhaust or dropping out the bottom?

    Ash
    The bolt your wire connects to goes straight to the field winding, and yes, if you twisted it, a short is possible there. But if it is jammed in gear or poling so the armature can't turn, that will also behave very much like a short.

    From memory it is best removed upwards, but it is quite a while since I have had mine off. I know it is a tight fit either way.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    the little rubber or bakelite insulation point has more than likely failed and as mentioned the cable is now touching the starter body shorting it out.

    to confirm that its not the starter locked on the flywheel grab the crank handle and turn the engine over a couple of times with the ignition off.

    whip it out take it to a reputable auto sparky and have it reconditioned or if your handy with the tools its a DIY.

    proividing the vehicle is in standard trim the startermotor comes out upwards, drive pinion first after playing landrover tetris with it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
    ashhhhh Guest
    No its definitely isnt stuck, ive started it with the crank and driven around.

    The insulator sounds like the problem, should have left the bloody nut alone!

    If it aint broke, dont fix it.

  9. #9
    ashhhhh Guest
    Well Blknight got it, insulation was buggered.

    The terminal post has a thin rubbery, plastic coating which had shredded and the fibre washers were also damaged.

    Wrapped the post in tape, new washers and I also added a metal washer to sandwich the fibre ones.

    Works great.

    Much easier job than that bloody gasket too....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    cardiff ,NEWCASTLE.
    Posts
    6,731
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Arent landrover great to own..always something to fix..it keeps us young & the younger ones wiser...LOL

    1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
    1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
    1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
    1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
    1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY

    My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER

    JASON & KAREN

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!