Thread: Fitting fixed glass in rear - process?

Yes to both. It is described in the manual. I don't know if the tool is available
(described as an "insertion tool" p/n 262771) but you should be able to make one if fairly handy.

The groove is put on the outside, with the join at the bottom. Fit the rubber to the panel, and trim to size, allowing 25mm overlap and compressing the rubber to get it in (this is important as fitting the glass will push it further into the hole in the panel, and otherwise you will have a gap. Fit the glass, using a flat piece of metal to pull the lip over the glass. Insert the filler strip starting opposite the join. Allow about 6mm overlap when trimming the end. Soapy water may make the whole process easier, if a bit messy.

Hope this helps,

John

since its out....

if you're going to do the soapy water trick do it on a tarp on a table with the glass and the frame flat.

The way I've seen it done is by using a piece of string/twine.

The 'H' section rubber is fitted to the glass, the string is then wrapped around the outside section of the 'H', the glass, rubber and string is then aligned closely with the hole in the panel and then as the string is pulled out - sort of at right angles to the glass/rubber - it drags one 'leg' of the 'H' section of the rubber over the edge of the cutout. Once the string is pulled right out it's then just a matter of inserting the filler strip which should tighten it all up.

Seen this principle utilised by windscreen fitters and once you have the technique right it's really quick and easy.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The groove is put on the outside, with the join at the bottom.
Hope this helps,

John

John

When I removed the window the joins were at the top? The stage 3 manual I have which only has a pic of the window not instructions shows the join at the top?

So not want to question you as to me it makes sense to be the bottom but that is not what I see?????

Thanks everyone else - very helpful - yes will do on the bench and will use soap - might try the string technique yet.

Skiboy

Use XTREMES method...

Have a look in the archives. Put in "diamond lacing tool".There is a post by 123rover50 that explains why you should have the filler strip on the inside.

I purchased the tool from the uk to do the leaking window rubbers on my elevating roof, although I haven't even opened it yet It's supposed to make the job really easy.

Let me know if you need a pic of it and I'll post one up.

Originally Posted by Skiboy

John

When I removed the window the joins were at the top? The stage 3 manual I have which only has a pic of the window not instructions shows the join at the top?

I quoted from my Series 2a manual. Actually, I doubt it makes a significant difference whether the join is top or bottom - unless the ends are square and tight together it will leak.

So not want to question you as to me it makes sense to be the bottom but that is not what I see?????

Thanks everyone else - very helpful - yes will do on the bench and will use soap - might try the string technique yet.

Skiboy

Again, I quoted from the manual about fitting the glass - I had forgotten about the string technique, as it is forty years since I have used it! I agree that is the way to go.

The book says to put the filler strip on the outside. This is probably to make it easier to fit with the panel on the vehicle. The reason for putting it on the inside, is to slightly increase security, as the glass can be removed by prying out the filler and then the glass with a screwdriver. But the improvement in security is not going to be all that great, as even if installed the other way, the glass can be easily removed with a Stanley knife. But I cannot see any drawbacks to putting it on the inside, except that it will make it a bit harder to remove or replace the glass if you have to, once the panel is on the vehicle.

John