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Thread: Cracks in radiator top & bottom tanks

  1. 12th March 2013, 05:24 PM #1
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    Cracks in radiator top & bottom tanks

    I found cracks in a Series III radiator top & bottom tanks, I've repaired them but I'm now worried whether the cracks were from rough handling or work hardening of the brass.

    Pictures are in post# 160 of this thread
    Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

    I was going to use the radiator but I'm now having second thoughts.


    Colin
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  2. 13th March 2013, 01:08 PM #2
    schuy1 Guest
    most likely age is causing the cracking. I have had it happen over the years and once it starts it just keeps on keeping on! Ok in a farm hack but not good on a road vehicle. Could let go at the worst time
    Cheers Scott
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  3. 13th March 2013, 03:25 PM #3
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    had my top tank brazed by the local radiator repair guy and have had no issues since and it has been a few years.
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  4. 13th March 2013, 05:52 PM #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by incisor View Post
    had my top tank brazed by the local radiator repair guy and have had no issues since and it has been a few years.
    Maybe brazing rather than soldering might be a long term solution, problem is the heat might unsolder the rest of the tank. Maybe part fill with water and use an oxy set.
    I think this one will be put to one side and I'll fit a new radiator.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
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    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
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  5. 13th March 2013, 07:42 PM #5
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    I had a hole form in the bottom tank of Willy's radiator a few months ago, I soldered it up and havn't had any problems yet.. I found that there was no rubber or anything between the radiator and body so I think vibration is a problem for me. It's on the list with all the other things I have to fix....
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  6. 13th March 2013, 08:45 PM #6
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    if the tanks are cracking then they are flexing,

    if they are flexing the radiator is getting twisted at the frame

    Worst case,

    if thats happening the bulkhead is not anchored correctly or is moving relative to the body or the body is twisting on the chassis.

    this means either of your bulkhead locating bolts is properly stuffed, the outrigger has rusted or the chassis is flexing because its rusting out behind the rear spring shackle bolts.

    Best case, you havent done up the radiator mounts properly, the lower mounts on the front panel or the wing mounting bolts.
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  7. 14th March 2013, 07:44 AM #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    if the tanks are cracking then they are flexing,

    if they are flexing the radiator is getting twisted at the frame

    Worst case,

    if thats happening the bulkhead is not anchored correctly or is moving relative to the body or the body is twisting on the chassis.

    this means either of your bulkhead locating bolts is properly stuffed, the outrigger has rusted or the chassis is flexing because its rusting out behind the rear spring shackle bolts.

    Best case, you havent done up the radiator mounts properly, the lower mounts on the front panel or the wing mounting bolts.
    The radiator I was repairing had been out of a vehicle for many years (someone doing a resto that lost momentum). There is a small dent in the tank near one crack so I suspect it's been dropped at some point.
    It's been recored many years ago so the tanks are old.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
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