Metal fatigue, that chance of failure is the same reason I feel nervous when riding in an old Ultralight plane.
Better it happens then in a car that has two diffs instead of one.I feel very lucky that this happened that close to home and not on one of my outback trips.
If they are not rusty and have kept oily in storage, that's the first thing to look for.I've got 5 spare diffs to choose from. How do I select the best one? The one with the least back lash? I'd rather use a second hand one than try to recondition one my self. Thank you .W.
Then if you have several to choose from, I would find one that hasn't got any nicks or marks showing it's been repaired ( the diff may not have been set up properly ), compare each of them by feeling the preload of the crown wheel and then the pinion.
To do this gently rock each way between the back lash and there should be a very slight amount of load on the bearings.
If it was mine I would also pop out the bearing shell on the side away from the crown wheel and have a look for any water marks or chatter marks inside the bearing cup.
If the bearings feel good and the back lash is between .008 to .012" , use it but first fit a new seal.
A new diff should be about .010" and a very worn one can still be running quiet with .015" or more back lash ( one that is worn but worn well ).
If you have been shown, or have a book showing very good description and photo's, the best way is to use some bearing blue to check the load marks.
The old school fellows told me to get the mark right, use a crow bar on the pinion to load the crown wheel and pinion to the point of working pressure on the teeth, doing this takes in account the flex within the housing and the centre cage.
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