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Thread: Lucky break

  1. #1
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    Lucky break

    While driving home from town, with about 3km to go my rear diff started to make a rumbling noise which turned to a crunching noise after a few hundred metres. Since the same amount of work is involved to change a diff with one tooth missing as it is with all the teeth missing I engaged 4-wheel drive and drove home. This is what I found.(Pic 1)Surprisingly all the bearing are in good condition.If they were wheel bearing I would not hesitate to use them again. One of the half shafts was jammed and I had wind it out by the nut fixing the drive member.(Pic 2)Apart from the broken teeth I didn't find any other loose bits. No broken tabs, split pins, bolts, wire etc.and the oil was clean. Any idea what could have caused this? This car has been my daily transport for just over 12 years and about 120000km.There was absolutely no warning.I feel very lucky that this happened that close to home and not on one of my outback trips.
    I've got 5 spare diffs to choose from. How do I select the best one? The one with the least back lash? I'd rather use a second hand one than try to recondition one my self. Thank you .W.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F.Nut View Post
    Any idea what could have caused this? This car has been my daily transport for just over 12 years and about 120000km.There was absolutely no warning.
    Metal fatigue, that chance of failure is the same reason I feel nervous when riding in an old Ultralight plane.

    I feel very lucky that this happened that close to home and not on one of my outback trips.
    Better it happens then in a car that has two diffs instead of one.

    I've got 5 spare diffs to choose from. How do I select the best one? The one with the least back lash? I'd rather use a second hand one than try to recondition one my self. Thank you .W.
    If they are not rusty and have kept oily in storage, that's the first thing to look for.

    Then if you have several to choose from, I would find one that hasn't got any nicks or marks showing it's been repaired ( the diff may not have been set up properly ), compare each of them by feeling the preload of the crown wheel and then the pinion.

    To do this gently rock each way between the back lash and there should be a very slight amount of load on the bearings.

    If it was mine I would also pop out the bearing shell on the side away from the crown wheel and have a look for any water marks or chatter marks inside the bearing cup.

    If the bearings feel good and the back lash is between .008 to .012" , use it but first fit a new seal.
    A new diff should be about .010" and a very worn one can still be running quiet with .015" or more back lash ( one that is worn but worn well ).

    If you have been shown, or have a book showing very good description and photo's, the best way is to use some bearing blue to check the load marks.

    The old school fellows told me to get the mark right, use a crow bar on the pinion to load the crown wheel and pinion to the point of working pressure on the teeth, doing this takes in account the flex within the housing and the centre cage.
    .

  3. #3
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    Thank you for your reply.Adjusting anything is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. Strangely enough the 2 diffs on my short list haven't got any numbers,ratios or dates on the flange but instead have a number stamped on the wide top rib.One is number 13574,the other 15330.Could they have been assembled by the army? I did once buy a burnt out S2a fire tender for spares.The only S2 I ever had. (I'm strictly a S1 person) .W.

  4. #4
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    I have a leaf spring Salisbury here if you would like it. You wont break it easily.

    K

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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    I have a leaf spring Salisbury here if you would like it. You wont break it easily.

    K
    Thanks Keith for your offer, but unless I use my own parts I won't be allowed to buy new ones. I've just found another 4 diffs in one of the sheds. .W.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    I have a leaf spring Salisbury here if you would like it. You wont break it easily. K
    All that is needed is shorten the tail shaft and a couple of spring mounting plates welded onto the Salisbury housing inside the existing ones.
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  7. #7
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    Do you live very far from Blknight.aus ? why don't you ask Dave if he has time that he could spare to choose one of your diffs as the replacement.

    There is one thing to do before you put the diff back in the housing is get a strong magnet and a hooked piece of wire and scratch around the inside of the housing making absolutely that there sure there is no flaky metal bits left caught inside.

    Check the tie wire ( inside the housing ) that stops the studs from turning, is in good condition and run the nuts on those studs by finger, if they too tight, get your self a die nut of the same thread and tidy up them up.
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  8. #8
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    There is one thing to do before you put the diff back in the housing is get a strong magnet and a hooked piece of wire and scratch around the inside of the housing making absolutely that there sure there is no flaky metal bits left caught inside.

    Check the tie wire ( inside the housing ) that stops the studs from turning, is in good condition and run the nuts on those studs by finger, if they too tight, get your self a die nut of the same thread and tidy up them up.
    .[/QUOTE]


    That's exactly what I've been doing today. .W.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F.Nut View Post
    Thanks Keith for your offer, but unless I use my own parts I won't be allowed to buy new ones. I've just found another 4 diffs in one of the sheds. .W.
    I didnt say you had to buy it

    Anyway a rover diff will probabably be enough for the 2 1/4.

    K

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F.Nut View Post
    That's exactly what I've been doing today. .W.
    Ah! great minds think alike.
    .

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