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Thread: Stale petrol......

  1. #1
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    Stale petrol......

    I've had a problem with a couple of the Land Rovers that stand outside in the open. Petrol smelt 'stale' plus I had the fuel pumps stop operating, take the pump apart and it seemed the valves had stuck.
    Both vehicles would run OK but took a bit of effort to get started,

    Checked the dipstick on the military IIa fuel tank and the end was covered in sludge and the brass was being eroded. The fuel had gone off and was leaving a lovely brown sludge everywhere.

    Dropped the tank and took the picture below through the level sensor opening.




    Looks like it needs a bit of work to de-rust and clean the inside before sealing it to stop further rusting.

    Rigged up a temporary tank, dropped the sedimenter bowl and cleaned it then flushed the fuel system through. Starts & runs a lot better on fresh fuel, funny that......

    Temporary tank will stay for a while while.





    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
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  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Looks like it needs a bit of work to de-rust and clean the inside before sealing it to stop further rusting.
    I derusted a tank with molasses and water solution.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    I derusted a tank with molasses and water solution.
    A lot of the brown stuff at the bottom isn't rust, I have to find something to dissolve that first.

    With molasses I read somewhere that having something half in caused problems with rusting at the barrier between the molasses & the air. Did you brim the tank with molasses ?

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    MoveLater2

    Yes, I did write about the interface problem and I did fill my tank to the brim.

    I haven't tried tank sealers but a few blokes have used them for their motorbike tanks which seem to be very vulnerable to rust.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  5. #5
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    These days the petrol needs a fuel stabiliser if being left for any extended period. The stuff is not expensive.
    Don

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don 130 View Post
    These days the petrol needs a fuel stabiliser if being left for any extended period. The stuff is not expensive.
    Don
    I understand it only stabilises for up to a year.

    Probably better if your not yet using the vehicle to either drain completely or keep the fuel level low and drain it out annually and replace with fresh.

    I added fresh to the old fuel (no idea how long it had been in there).

    Once the tank is cleaned up & coated I might stay with the temporary tank until I get the vehicle back on the road.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    The extent of the stale fuel problem is largely a function of the humidity. Not much of a problem inland, and the more humid the worse it gets. Mainly due to bacterial action at the interface between the fuel and water that condenses with changes of temperature (The bigger the daily change in temperature and the higher the humidity, the more condensation you get.)

    The solution is to either drain the fuel completely from the tank (and drain condensation before putting it back into service) or alternatively fill the tank completely before the vehicle is stored, which will largely prevent condensation. And if possible avoid using fuel with ethanol in it, as this makes the water miscible with condensed water, so that bacterial action can take place anyway. A fuel stabiliser will help, but how long it lasts will depend on how much condensation exists, so use it in addition to the above precautions.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    the best thing you can do is use the fuel.

    fit a facet pump and an openable stop cock to the fuel line. when you need to do the lawns open the cock, fit a hose and turn on the pump then fill the mower.

    when you're done (one a month or si go for a drive in the vehicle as a "maintenance run" and top the tank off.

    more fuel with less ullage space lasts longer than a partially filled tank.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  9. #9
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    Can't afford to have loads of Land Rovers sitting around with full fuel tanks so I think I might drop the contents, leave the tank vented and switch to a temporary tank when I want to move it around the property.
    Once it gets back on the road I can re-connect the tank.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  10. #10
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    You'll find that 95 octane fuel lasts better than 91 but yeah, stale fuel is still an issue.

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