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Thread: Wiring loom... or, unsnarling the rat's nest

  1. #1
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    Wiring loom... or, unsnarling the rat's nest

    I always knew that the wiring would break me, and suspect I'm not alone. Now I need some help (not that cheeky, I'm already medicated ) but thought the sorts of questions I'm likely to ask and the responses might be useful to others so started a new thread.

    I suspect my Series 1 (Wombat) is pretty typical of what us restorers usually face. Most things under the bonnet aren't attached, all wires are more or less the same colour, not a bit of it you'd wish to use again.

    Then I pulled the dash board (instrument cluster) off and my worst fears were realised - lots of wires, none in good nick, signs of modifications and 'fixes'.

    Cue scary photo behind the dash

    It's okay to say: "aww, them S1s are simple, you should see behind a S3".

    Funnily enough, it doesn't look too bad in the photo. Under the bonnet is worse. I'll get to that.

    Some questions.

    Seeing new looms are available, I'm guessing the best move is to simply buy a new loom. Am I right? For those who've bought one recently, what did it cost you? Where the cables labelled or properly colour coded (with a key)?

    Seeing I'm be replacing it, is it worth attempting to label all these wires before pulling them out? What's the most effective way to do so?

    I'm going to attempt to label the photo above telling me what each wire is and what it does in the hope that this gives some guidance later. Anyone else tried this? If I succeed, others coming later can PM me for a copy of the photo.

    Thanks for your help. Hopefully we can help others as well, this being a generic problem faced with these restorations.
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    I've got zero series landy experience, but have changed wiring looms in more modern, non land rover cars in the past, and even made some basic accessory looms as well.

    The trick is to label everything you can - ie what colour wires join to what device. My experience was somewhat bearable as the vehicle had numerous plug / connector styles which were not easily mistaken.

    If a replacement harness (using the factory wiring colours) is available, go for it. Between a new loom and the service manual, you should be fine.

    The alternative is making the loom yourself, which would be a pain, even on a relatively simple vehicle. This usually involves pulling everything out, nailing it down to a piece of ply, and tracing the arms of the loom and the wire paths within them. Then re-running your own wires following the guide. Couple the wire length with the correct wiring colours (if available) and different connections on the wire ends, and it becomes an infinitely more painful exercise. Great if you like puzzles, and have no regard for your sanity.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  3. #3
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    More important than marking the wires - as the colours have almost gone - is making plenty of notes and taking heaps of pics of where the loom runs under the bonnet and where the wires run through the firewall. The autosparks looms are good and all the colour coding is correct so with a good wiring diagram and some patience it will come together.

    Just done a series 2 loom and it took a bit of nutting out - and I'm a sparky, but I got there in the end. Check out Grey Ghosts build in the series 2 section for details.

    Oh, and behind the dash will always look messy - even with a new loom, that's just the way they are.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  4. #4
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    Yeah. No colours left on my wires. I wondered about labeling because if they're being removed from the car.

  5. #5
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    I'm still running the original wiring, would love to install a new harness but because of all the additional wiring done by the original owner it would be a time consuming exercise.




    I still have to work out what the headlamp globe is doing in there.

    Autosparks in the UK can supply at a reasonable price but a few people have commented on minor issues, there is also Vinwire which is a local company but they tend to be more expensive.
    Scotts Old Auto Rubber list them but they possibly come from Vinwire.

    I'll carry a fire extinguisher until I make my mind up about the wiring in my Series I......



    Colin
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    Hi Crackers
    I was in exactly your position skill wise and job at hand, only mine was not as complete or tidy as yours with things like a Yamaha motorbike ignition silicone into the dash.
    Every body you speak to says how easy it is though like you I was thinking it is a bit overwhelming. The drive behind trying to work it out was that if I get stranded I would have more of an understanding of where to start.
    I purchased a second hand unused loom from ebay as part of someone else's project that went another direction. If this opportunity did not arise I would have purchased a reproduction loom. It gives you all the right colours to simplify things and the correct fittings that stop at the approximate length of what they are attached to. There are a few different looms out there for specific vehicles depending on where the high beam is located(floor or column) and length of chassis.
    I ended up completing 95% of the install with reference to the workshop manual and Dinty's posts. Where I required additional help was when I started to modify the wiring. I installed some indicators run through the park lamps at the front and sourced some glass lucas indicators for the rear. This meant moving the parker wiring to the main beam. The local Auto Electrician was able to fix this up and check over what I had done making the cost negligible.

  7. #7
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    I'd definitely go for a new loom and for the labelling I'd invest in a Dymo - either hand held or from the PC.


    Take three times as many pictures as you think you'll need.


    Once the wiring is out its a good idea as previously mentioned to lay it out on some ply for future reference in re-installing it.


    Get hold of a wiring diagram.


    cheers,
    D


    p.s A braided loom from Autosparks appears to be GBP187.50 + misc stuff not included on the main loom + add postage
    Last edited by Dark61; 20th July 2015 at 08:08 PM. Reason: further
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  8. #8
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    Just going down the removal path myself.

    have no experience with wiring, and its a pet hate. have taken more photos than i need as well as labeling everything i could. 30% of the wires were hanging down to no where shredded, however labelled and photoed everything I could.
    will be replacing with new loom, however for reference and laying out and not being down this path before i tried to work out the best path to be able to reinstall for a novice.

    Cheers
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  9. #9
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    Nice labels. I'm writing with biro on masking tape, tearing it off the roll, then folding it back on itself around the wire. Rough but effective. I'd like to think it fits in with the agricultural nature of the beast.

    I converted my MGB BT from RHD to LHD and that involved flipping the behind dash loom and I labelled those wires the same way and they were still readable when I sold her six years later.

    I'm also making sketches of where things go, particularly behind the instruments, though whether they'll be of any real use later is anyone's guess.

    Added to that, I'm labelling the photos I take with a photo editor.

    None of this in anyway guarantees that I'll be able to install my new loom. With that level of paranoia I'll probably find myself with stuff that either isn't described or which contradicts something else.

    Joe Lucas was called the Prince of Darkness for good reason... and look who made the electrics for these things.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark61 View Post
    Take three times as many pictures as you think you'll need.
    You optimist you. I'm making the CIA look like the ticket guy at the local footy club.

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