when dad bought his patrol back in 93 (3 yrs old at the time) the handle was missing. So he just fashioned one from a length of round bar. worked well enough.
My Series I came with the original King Dick jack and a wheel brace but all the other Land Rovers I've got came without jacks.
Looking around trash & treasure markets it seems that a lot of people scrap a car and keep the jack, there are always plenty of the scissor type with & without handles.
With another Land Rover about to hit the road thought turned to a jack & wheel brace. I considered a hydraulic bottle jack, problem is most state 'must be stored upright' which must be due to poor quality build allowing the oil to leak out. I wanted something that can be thrown in the toolbox and forgotten about until a puncture occurs in many years time but will always work.
A while ago I found a Nissan screw bottle jack at a market. It's a 2-stage so has a good lift and is rated to 1.6 tonne. Took it apart & cleaned & greased it, for $3 it's a good backup despite not having a handle.
Then found another at a tip shop. A Nissan one again ($10 this time) and it came with the lower part of the operating handle. This was rivetted together so unless I drill it out I can't get inside to glean/grease it.
Today found a Daihatsu one (checked and it's rated to 1.5 Tonne so must be from something like a Rocky). Again no handle.
Red is Daihatsu, olive drab is a Nissan and the dark one on the right is Nissan.
DSCN3670 by Colin Radley, on Flickr
Looks like I need to make a couple of operating handles although you could operate them with a screwdriver at a pinch.
Colin
Last edited by gromit; 17th September 2017 at 06:43 PM.
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
when dad bought his patrol back in 93 (3 yrs old at the time) the handle was missing. So he just fashioned one from a length of round bar. worked well enough.
I am using an excellent Landcruiser jack in my 2a. It has a similar ring for a handle to those you show, but rather than carry a separate handle, I have made an adapter to fit the crank handle to it. This is simply a piece of 3/4" pipe about 50mm long with a crossbar and cutaway permanently attaching it to the jack, and a pair of slots to dog onto the crank handle. I can't remember whether I had to turn a little out of it for the handle or not.
It lives standing upright behind the passenger seat, wrapped in an old towel.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Here's mine.
It's an old truck jack and probably older than my Series 1. Been part of my life since I first started working on cars with my dad when I was big enough to hand him tools but too small to hand him the right one (and when I first learnt to swear).
As you can see, she's a two stage unit, the thinner top screw and the fatter lower screw. Has quite a good lift and is geared such that it's easy to lift a vehicle's body without using the handle but once the wheels start lifting (ie, you've got the full weight of a corner), you need the handle. The handle extends and one end is straight while the other has a slight bend allowing better access depending on its position under the vehicle.
The only drawbacks are the small base and the need to stop the top pad from turning - this latter happens automatically once it's in contact with the vehicle but until then, it's a PITA.
Like the others, it'll be wrapped in an old towel and tossed into a convenient hole in me Landy.
Just had a chat with Dad. It's pre-war and was picked up from somewhere by my grandfather for use on his fruit block![]()
Managed to get another couple from a Trash & Treasure market today.
Here's a few already collected.
DSCN3859 by Colin Radley, on Flickr
These two were collected this morning ($4each !). Had to take them apart, clean & grease.
DSCN4513 by Colin Radley, on Flickr
Probably have enough now and need to make some handles.......
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
I reckon is a good idea - especially for vehicles such as Land Rovers that may present a range of jacking problems in different situations is to carry at last two jacks of different types which have different capabilities and limitations. Also, good to also have a collection of wooden blocks to use as wheel chocks and/or to effectively give higher jacking capabilities. Then something like a heavy steel plate to put under jack to stop it sinking under load on soft ground /mud is often useful.
I have a couple of jacks similar to screw jacks illustrated . Bought at clearing sale auction and don't know what vehicles they were originally in but someone reckoned Toyota. Maybe all some sort of generic Japanese ones. Anyway, reckon they are overall good ones to have. Hydraulic jacks better only if in good order and in some conditions. Remember no good if not close to upright. Will not work on side or upside down. Also easy become unusable with oil leaks, rust on shaft etc especially if not well cared for.
One example of needing jacks such as screw ones of different heights is that with eg a completely flat tyre, one that is initially very low may be the only type that will fit in under somewhere that can be jacked. Then when it is wound. pumped or whatever to full height, may still not be high enough to change wheel. Less lowering fully onto blocks or whatever and repeating process is necessary if another taller jack can be used alongside or elsewhere to continue lifting. A second jack is also helpful if vehicle or jack taking load moves and increases risk of vehicle falling off it.
In my Defender, for which uses include on farm, I normally carry four jacks which all have uses at times. Sometimes in combination. One low Japanese style screw jack like those illustrated with long handles. Then a higher heavy screw jack which is also wound with a handle. Then a higher still screw jack apparently intended for tractors which has a sort of nut with ratchet. Lastly, an old hi lift type. The latter have limitations and may be hazardous in some situations but can be very useful in others. eg Jacking on bumper bars. or other places to lift body for a start instead of under axle or other unsprung component. .
My 80" has a Shelley LJ45 screw bottle jack , the handle was missing so I took a photo of a friends origional jack handle & fabricated one using a early Range Rover handle . I then bought the new wooden handle piece from the UK
Back in the 1980's and 90's we had several Daihatsu 4WD's, F50, F55, and an F65 Scat, they all had bottle type screw jacks similar to that one you have there, however the handle had a "T" end that fitted into a slot, rather than a hook/loop set-up.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
I managed to get hold of this NOS Series 1 jack a few years ago and it even has 57 cast into it.
![]()
Numpty
Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
REMLR No 143
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