Cracking Coolant Leak - But from where?

**inch** · 27th November 2016, 10:39 AM

Anyone able to help me on this one? I have a horrible feeling what it bight be but hoping its a little more simple

Done a bit of work on the S3. Not much on the engine except new sump gasket, thermostat/gasket and rocker cover gasket. I dropped the coolant, flushed it thru and added water and 75g of citric acid, i read elsewhere here it can help do a de scale. Thats about it, new hoses all round.

Its now about a week later, not driven it yet and I've got a huge puddle of coolant on the floor, its a good steady run of the stuff. Its dripping off the cross member but coming off the bell housing near the wading plug hole. I can trace it to the top of the bell housing, where it meets the block but can't find any damp further up (The seam of the Cylinder head gasket seems dry - Please no!) There is an oval plate there i don't recognise.

Ive attached some photos (well ill try to) but anyone got any idea what it is, I've a horrible feeling the citric acid may have dislodged something... The thermostat is dry, the heater hoses seem fine, was hoping it was them but looks like it isn't. The heater unit inside the cab is also dry so it does look like its somewhere around the back of the block

The photos are taken with the camera looking from the brake servo area

Appreciate some words from the wise...

cheers
Ian

**inch** · 27th November 2016, 10:42 AM

The dark stain on the cross member is probably the citric discolouring the galv

**inch** · 27th November 2016, 11:09 AM

Okay,

Cup of coffee later, think i may have found it...

small Core plug at the back of the engine, anyone any experience of these, Ive never swapped a plug before and it looks hard up against the bulkhead.

**Blknight.aus** · 27th November 2016, 12:02 PM

ahh yes... that plug.

2 choices really...

drill a big hole in the fire wall or pull the engine out...

while its out manifolds off and do all of them... hell get really enthusatisc and take the rocker gear off and to the ones in the top of the head too.

just trust me.

**JDNSW** · 27th November 2016, 12:11 PM

As Dave says!

John

**Homestar** · 27th November 2016, 12:23 PM

Yep, it'll be a real mess and probably difficult to remove and clean the area up, so I would recommend pulling the engine. I've seen a couple of firealls with large holes patched up in them from doing it that way - it isn't pretty.

As mentioned, that's a perfect time to do the others - they will be in similar condition, and maybe do the rear main seal, and some gaskets while you're at it.

**inch** · 27th November 2016, 04:28 PM

Thanks Guys,

I was struggling to see any other option but looks like its engine out time... The main seal seems like a sensible idea whilst its out. Be a first for me lifting out the engine but I guess you couldn't ask for an easier engine. I'm assuming i can take the motor clean off the bell housing without any clutch alignment tools or the likes?

Just glad it isn't the head gasket!

cheers ian

**JDNSW** · 27th November 2016, 07:18 PM

The engine can be disconnected at the bell housing or removed complete with the gearbox and transfer case - which is preferred will usually depend on what you want to do while it is out.

It will be easier, perhaps much easier, depending what gear you have and how much room, to remove the radiator and its support panel, and especially if not using an overhead hoist with plenty of clearance, one or both mudguards.

John

**inch** · 27th November 2016, 08:36 PM

Thanks,

Typically I've just put the radiator etc back in! I'll pull out the radiator, front panel and maybe the left wing and have a go at lifting the engine without the clutch etc. I've got a floor crane but can't imagine it's got anywhere near the clearance for a straight lift without taking those bits off first. If I remember to take some photos I might do a thread on it.
Thanks ian

**inch** · 5th December 2016, 11:13 PM

Got the motor out today, wasn't too challenging, got it out without the gearbox or transfer case. as suggested had to remove the radiator panel and radiator. Took off both wings too which made access heaps easier. Hoped to get away with not having to lift the floor but the three top bolts on the bell house casing couldn't be got at without taking out the floor, gear box cover and heater unit.

The core plug was corroded through. All the others had been recently replaced, bar, you guessed it the little one at the back... Bears out what was advised earlier, if you are going to change one change the lot!

No oil under the ring gears so going to leave the mail seal alone. Clutch looks good. However there is half of Tasmania sloshing around in the bell house casing. Which explains why the wading plug was tough to remove, its never been used! So cleaned all that out. I noticed that, an excellent design point here, that the clutch slave housing is the lowest point in the casing, so the poor thing sits all day in a puddle of grotty oily sludge. No wonder they rot, so new one of them on order!

Thanks for your advice, hopefully it will all go back together as easily and with only a few spare bits left overhttp://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/icons/icon10.gif

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