Thread: Suspension springs

Depends largely on what state they are in. The major reason for pulling them apart is to deal with interleaf friction. This comes from two sources - rust, and steps worn in the overlying leaf. The second of these can be dealt with only by stripping the spring and grinding the step smooth, but unless the rust is really bad, it can be dealt with by lubricating the springs. While best done by stripping the spring and greasing each leaf, especially to start with, it can done pretty effectively without removing the spring from the vehicle by using oil (but needs to be done more frequently - perhaps every service, depending on conditions. It will be messier, but not unduly so. If you don't strip the spring first, expect to have the springs always covered in rusty oil, and it you like them to look reasonable, paint them before adding oil.

The springs should be oiled with no load on them, even better with negative load to separate the leaves (for example disconnect shocks and check straps and let them hang under the weight of the axles, or even better, jack the spring away from the chassis - but careful not to stretch the brake hoses).

The type of oil does not matter much - something light and penetrating is best if you can't take the load off, but don't expect it to last long. Possibly the best would be chain and bar oil, as it is designed to stick in place. I use engine oil, often the oil I tip out of the aircleaner - OK, its got dust in it, but not as much as it will have fifty metres down the track!

I overhauled the front springs on my S3 not so long ago. Strip, grind, chamfer paint and reassemble both took 2 days. The resultant ride quality is far better and the shocks now have something to do!!
Highly recommended

Leaf spring spreaders used to be common so that you could grease/oil them. I've also seen wedges that had a hole in them so you drove them between the leaves & injected grease.
Model T Ford Forum: ACCESSORY OF THE DAY 01/24/10 KNOWLSON LEAF SPRING SPREADER TOOLS

There is some debate as to whether the grease or oil attracts dirt and causes additional wear.

On 'high end' cars you used to see gaiters on the leaf springs, kept dirt out & grease in Welcome to Wefco Gaiters I dread to think what they cost now but surprised to see Wefco still in business.



Colin

Leaf springs are still used extensively in the USA on muscle cars and I looked at lipped teflon spring liners that are available at a reasonable price there. They are only available up to 2 1/4" wide so I didn't get any but the friction free (almost) leaf interface has an appeal.

I dont bother with the grease etc - the enhanced bumpy ride saves me having to whack the end of the fire extinguisher from time to time.
cheers,
D

Spring gaiters, to my mind, are mainly effective at keeping water in rather than dirt out. However,if you have a flash car with oiled springs, they stop, or at least reduces, the drips.

I used to think that oiling or greasing springs increased wear, but I have since come round to the view that they are better oiled, especially if not in daily use. Actually, I think the best is probably greased, but this means stripping the springs regularly to redo it - unless they are in full gaiters fitted with grease nipples!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Spring gaiters, to my mind, are mainly effective at keeping water in rather than dirt out. However,if you have a flash car with oiled springs, they stop, or at least reduces, the drips.

John,
The lowest point is just held together with a leather strap & buckle so they wouldn't be water tight.

My Dad used grease tape, used to wrap gas/water pipe joints on pipes buried underground. Grease the springs, wrap with the grease tape then a coating of dust/dirt built up on the outside but inside the springs were protected.
The Wefco gaiters were more for the Rolls Royce, Bentley, Armstrong Siddeley brigade where you had 'your driver' fit & maintain them.


Colin

I have been using moly spray on the S1, very thin when sprayed, and the solvent evaporates leaving a deposit containing molybdenum disulphide. I suppose a similar product containing graphite would work well also.
Terry