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Thread: Clutch Slave bleeder

  1. #1
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    Clutch Slave bleeder

    Hi All,

    I noticed that the clutch slave can go in two ways, one with the bleeder facing towards the gear lever, and the opposite 180 degrees around with the bleeder facing away from the gear lever.

    My originally had the bleeder facing towards the gear lever, and I think that's how the workshop manual shows it too.

    I haven't installed my firewall again, but it seems to me the bleeder at the gear lever side would be more difficult to reach compared to switching it around, so why is shown that way in the workshop manual, and does it make sense to switch the clutch slave around to the bleeder is more accessible ?

    Any opinion sought

    Thanks
    John

  2. #2
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    Im not sure which way around the bleeder goes but one way its easier to bleed the clutch when u remove the grommet from the lower rh firewall.

    Cheers Rod

  3. #3
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    Bleeder needs to be at the top or else the air can’t get out.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
    Bleeder needs to be at the top or else the air can’t get out.
    Then why oh why is the bleeder at the bottom on LWB front brakes.......

    As for the clutch slave cylinder....... towards the gear lever if you're bleeding via the hole in the bulkhead, away from the gearlever may be useful if bleeding from underneath the vehicle ?!

    DSCN4956 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

    DSCN4957 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Then why oh why is the bleeder at the bottom on LWB front brakes.......

    As for the clutch slave cylinder....... towards the gear lever if you're bleeding via the hole in the bulkhead, away from the gearlever may be useful if bleeding from underneath the vehicle ?!

    DSCN4956 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

    DSCN4957 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


    Colin
    Thanks for the pics Colin. Mines still in bits so I couldnt put one up to show what I meant...

    Cheers Rod

  6. #6
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    Hello All,

    Just be aware that originally - when the vehicle rolled off the factory floor it was fitted with these parts are listed as:
    Banjo Bolt 512235
    Washer 216914
    Banjo Slave Cylinder Bleed 90622182
    Washer 233220
    Bleed Screw 556508.

    The make bleeding the clutch so much easier!

    Unfortunately, they are probably the first thing that gets thrown away with the old clutch master cylinder and the new parts manufacturers do not supply them.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello All,

    Just be aware that originally - when the vehicle rolled off the factory floor it was fitted with these parts are listed as:
    Banjo Bolt 512235
    Washer 216914
    Banjo Slave Cylinder Bleed 90622182
    Washer 233220
    Bleed Screw 556508.
    Lionel,

    My Series II/IIa parts manual shows it exactly as the picture.
    Part number 512235 comes up as Series IIa LHD & Series III
    90622182 comes up as Series III.

    Might make it easier to access but the rear of the slave cylinder would need to be spot faced for the washer to seal against. Not sure that Series II/IIa slaves are spot faced around both ports.

    Colin
    Last edited by gromit; 16th October 2018 at 05:38 AM.
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  8. #8
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    Banjos, I wish !!

    Thanks for all the info guys, now I know what the big hole in the transmission cover is for !!

    Cheers,
    John

  9. #9
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    Did three things to make clutch slave cylinder bleeding easier when I had to replace it on 1961 S2. The bleed screw broke off when I tried to undo it so coated threads on new one with anti seize. The rubber plug needed to be replaced. Had a slightly larger diameter one amongst stuff Clark rubber . Enlarged the hole to suit. Made visibility and accessibility to the bleed screw from the side slightly less difficult. Also drilled /filed another hole so the bleed screw can be loosened and tightened with a half inch drive socket on a short extension through it An appropriate sized grommet plugs this hole in the tinwork which is where it is starting to curve around from horizontal to vertical.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mox View Post
    Did three things to make clutch slave cylinder bleeding easier when I had to replace it on 1961 S2. The bleed screw broke off when I tried to undo it so coated threads on new one with anti seize. The rubber plug needed to be replaced. Had a slightly larger diameter one amongst stuff Clark rubber . Enlarged the hole to suit. Made visibility and accessibility to the bleed screw from the side slightly less difficult. Also drilled /filed another hole so the bleed screw can be loosened and tightened with a half inch drive socket on a short extension through it An appropriate sized grommet plugs this hole in the tinwork which is where it is starting to curve around from horizontal to vertical.
    Any photos
    Cheers Paul

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