ChatterBox
Hi.
Thinking of adding something like this
FUSE BLOCK Panel Box 6 Way Standard Blade ATC ATO Holder 12V 24V Camper Caravan | eBay
As added protection, to the wires running through the chassis to the rear end.
Anyone added this sort of mod before.
Thanks
whitehillbilly
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberIf the main wiring loom has decent fuse protection then not really required, however if you only have 1 or 2 fuses in a standard loom, and any additional wiring that may not have been installed very well, then it couldn't hurt. Put it somewhere easy to get to out of anywhere it will get covered in mud or water as this could cause you more problems than it solves.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Fossicker
SupporterThe following relates to S3, but I imagine may also relate to others.
My understanding from the attached schematic is that there are a few shortcomings you may want to address. I hear there have been some fires as a result of these issues, I guess moreso as the insulation on the wiring ages and cracks.
- some elements such as horn and coil are not fuse protected
- significant amount of dash wiring is not fuse protected
- wiring to tail lights etc at rear not fuse protected
- dash socket not fuse protected
- horn and headlights switched directly by dash switches with no relays
Basically I understand all wiring from Post N and From Post W not protected.
I think you can correct this by adding;
- Fusible link for feed from engine bay to dash.
- Some fuses as you suggest
- Some relays for higher current items
Master
SubscriberI'm actually using exactly the same 6 fuse fuse box on my late 2a rebuild. With a standard 2a only having two fuses, I wanted to add more fuses to separate the circuits, so one fuse blowing doesn't take out everything. After much thought, I decided to dedicate 2 fuses to 12V always on, so this would be for horn/headlights, 2 fuses for ON (Ignition switch on), these would be for wipers / indicators, dash instruments / bulbs etc, and 2 fuses for Accessories (Ignition switch ACC), for radio / heater etc.
With the additional fuses, I am wiring mine more like a S3 than a S2a.
As for the chassis wiring, I don't think there's a need to fuse the wires going to the rear as such, as they are mainly for lights, and lights more commonly fail open circuit when the bulb blows, so no need for a fuse. I'm not sure about LED bulbs though, I guess they may fail closed circuit (short), or an even more unlikely scenario is a light fitting itself short, maybe through water intrusion or rust etc.
I hope that helps.
Cheers,
John
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