Thread: Series alternator options pls

I suspect that like most alternators, Lucas ones are relatively easy to rebuild (depends what is wrong with it), and I expect parts are available. When I had this issue I went to the local auto electrician, and he had a (non-Lucas) replacement on the shelf, so I took that. I do intend to rebuild the original, but have not even looked at it yet. Since they are a vehicle that remained in production for a long time, with the same alternator, and continue to be used there are certainly replacements made in either China or India or both, and these are almost certainly at least as cheap paying someone to rebuild it, so that is unlikely to be the cheapest option unless you plan to do the rebuild yourself.

About all that goes wrong with alternators is the brushes, the diodes or the regulator, or the bearings - if the bearings fail, there could be damage that makes it not feasible to repair. From memory the alternator has a single unit that includes the brushes, diodes and regulator, and is replaceable.

Thanks John. I actually have 2 of these, one has a knackered bearing (can move pulley around) but the one on the s2a is ok, just not returning charge. I am hesitant to rebuild as they are old units, but also dont trust new cheap build either. Ill hunt around a bit more, got time as im not driving it (not reg obviously). For a diesel i would expect a 70amp to be good as in my example link?

Years ago I had a spare Lucas alt. rebuilt by the local auto electrician. It was quite expensive . At the time I thought, 'I should have bought a new one'. When the one in the vehicle finally packed up I took it apart and found it only needed new brushes, which cost me less than $10.
.W.

70A is plenty - in fact you will need to make sure the wiring is up to it.

You don't really need that unless you are running a lot more than original - driving lights, aircon, etc.

i went with a 65amp bosch generic and had the pulley shaved to suit..

So would a 50 amp do if one has say spot lights on and headlights? Maybe ill pull the other one apart as a learning experience and then the good one and check it. Problem is i dont know what im looking for...

My 101 still runs a 35 amp alternator and I have no issues with it. Lights account for the biggest load, unless you plan on putting 2 extra sets of spotties on it, 50 amps is heaps. Not much else to run in a Series electrically - wipers and.... ?

And to your question - with a set of spotlights, high beam, all other lights (indicators, brakes, parkers, etc) and your wipers, you’d be under 40 amps. 50 is plenty big enough. 👍

I did the cape in a SIII diesel dual n70's with car fridge huge compressor and all manner of sundries..

on a 35A alternator and an 80w panel.

check 2 things first.

1. theres a feed wire for the external excitation. does it have voltage when the ignition is on and not when the ignition is off ( you may need to disconnect the wire to check it, check the wire AND the post on the alternator)

2. the brush on the slip ring or if its an advanced number the slip ring roller, may have lifted, a couple of whacks with a small deadblow hammer may bring it back to life.

after that its pull it down and rebuilt time, its only an old school lucas or bosch so its essentially DIY and takes a couple of lazy hours to do it.