No, but my assessment (after reading the data sheet) is it is very unlikely to hurt, and may help.
Any one tried this in a Fairey Overdrive.
Was chatting to a guy who uses it in his older machinery, and swears by it.
Suggest I use it in my overdrive.
Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer
Thanks for the comments.
whitehillbilly
No, but my assessment (after reading the data sheet) is it is very unlikely to hurt, and may help.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks John.
I wouldn't, i hate the stuff.
Lucas Oil Stabiliser?
IIRC the Fairey ODs run ATF and have a shaft-driven pump and a cone clutch (at least that's true in the old Volvo's). Given that I'd be wary of using something that thickens the oil or changes the frictional characteristics. May stress the pump and/or cause the clutch to slip under load.
I'm not opposed to additives at all, but they have to be targetted for the right application. A high quality synthetic ATF would be more suitable in that case IMHO.
What issue are you trying to fix?
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
Fairey overdrives run EP-90, and have no slipping clutch. They are a two speed manual gearbox, with direct and overdrive gears, selected by a conventional synchromesh assembly. I suspect you are thinking of something else.
The major problems with the Fairey are that they are rather weak (definitely do not use except in 3 and 4), have barely adequate oil supply for cooling, and the input coupling is not adequately lubricated (same sort of issue as the spud shaft on later Defenders). Also, the small oil reservoir means that a small leak can rapidly see them running low on oil. Oil level should be checked every service if not more often, but because it means removing the seat and seat box panel or tool tray, is often forgotten.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
The problem is that often with inadequate lubrication problems, going up in viscosity creates problems, the oil can't flow fast enough into starving bearings to maintain a hydrodynamic wedge of oil, particularly when cold.
Lucas and Moreys have bugger all EP and AW additives too, they are just thick bright stock
There are no EP requirements in the Fairey overdrive - the EP-90 is simply for commonality with the diffs and gearbox. I tried running mine on synthetic gearbox oil, was unable to see any difference. With this gearbox, when properly maintained, there is no "inadequate lubrication" issue unless you let the oil level get low. (except for the drive dog, and what you put in the overdrive has nothing to do with that!)
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Is it possible to modify the older Faireys so that they oil share with the transfer?
Like in an LT95 where you have a catcher on top and a drain in the middle?
Regards Philip A
John, you miss what I'm saying, there are basically no EP or AW additives in it, and you'd want either an ATF type additive package or at least a GL4 level of additives for basic gear protection.
Even a 15W-40 engine oil would probably work ok (they are planetary greats, aren't they?) But those oil 'stabilisers' have bugger all in them.
I've seen an analysis, admittedly from 10-15 years ago, and there was nothing useful in either other than thick oil.
[Edit] and thicker isn't what you want or need in a gearbox that is already suffering from an inadequate oil supply.
It takes longer to climb and feed critical parts, I remember seeing data, again from about 15 years ago on the time it takes an SAE 140 oil to reach the front pinion bearing in a diff vs a 75W-90 oil.
It was in the order of minutes from cold but not sub zero start.
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