Ok, found the original thread, was back in 2013 and I think it had been on the road for at least 12 months by then.
Fuel Injecting a Series Landrover
I never did get round to a HUD, maybe one day.
Cheers,
TimJ.
Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer
Well yes, but the problem is that if you stall the engine, if you have an accident etc the ignition is still switched on so you still have a pump running and pushing petrol through the lines. You have to stop the fuel pump when the engine stops, not when the ignition is turned off. This is usually done through one of these switches or through one that runs off oil pressure, either one will work fine and you just use it as part of the trigger for the fuel pump relay. That's where those Tachymetric ones are interesting because they combine the switch and relay which may ultimately be cheaper than buying the two items seperately. The discos have an inertia switch which does a similar job but will only stop things if you hit something.
Cheers,
TimJ.
Actually just reread your post and definitely not from the start position, that should only be selected when you have the starter motor going so you definitely don't want the fuel pump off that.
Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer
fit a T and secon oil presure switch (or just rely on the one to do both jobs.
set up a self latching relay cofiguration that requires
1. oil pressure to be low (engine not running
2. ignition to be on
3. a button to be pressed to start the fuel pump
turn on the ignition, push the button and the relay flips and latches running the pump until you crank the engine and the oil pressure comes up breaking the earth and stopping the pump.
in rough ascii
oil pressure switch ------ Relay coil ------T---Fuel pump
......................Normally open contact...+ Push button switch--|
Ignition source-Common contact........................................... |
......................Normally closed contact.--------------------------|
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Here's another fuel cut out relay that might do the job : Fuel pump wiring kit 12V 40Amp TYCO relay with wired base | eBay
Cheers,
John
G'day All,
Attached 2 JPEG files regarding the Holley single pole,double throw safety switch wiring, running from the engine oil pressure line.
Very simple and does the functions talked about in the thread.
This safety switch has a 1/8 NPT thread. You may have to make an adapter to fit the 1/8 BSP threads used on early LandRovers.
Chris
Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer
I changed my mind Tim, I'll set up the mechanical and electric pumps in parallel :-)
So given that, do you see any issue running the fuel pump off the "start" line from the ignition switch to started solenoid ?
Thanks
John
The electric pump will only work while the starter is turning which means it won't prime before the engine turns over. That is the way the mechanical pumps work and is why you sometimes need to hand prime them if the seals are a little flaky.
If the pumps are in parallel you have to make sure that neither of them have suspect seals that would allow fuel to run back the other way. If you repair the seals in the mechanical pump (or replace it which is pretty cheap and easy) then why put the electric pump in anyway?
There are all sorts of ways to do this, all you want is the right amount of fuel getting to the carbie at the right time. I believe there is a safety issue if you have a pump that can run when the engine is not and I prefer an electric pump because you can control it better to do things like priming. A lot of the people on here would argue with the second one of those but very few would fuel inject one either. It's really up to you how you put it together.
Cheers,
TimJ.
Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer
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