Member
SupporterI have a S3 engine and S3 gearbox in a S1 car, mated with a S2A bellhousing (retaining the mechanical clutch). I put it all together a year ago. All parts new or reconditioned. Since then I’ve done less than 500km. Once it’s in a gear, the car drives fine, but selecting them can be dicey. If I throw the lever quickly, it seems to select better.
With the car in gear, and clutch pedal depressed, it doesn’t go anywhere. And when I lift off the pedal, the car takes off - as per normal. So the clutch seems to work partially. Clutching and coming to a stop is fine too. Clutch feels heavy enough.
But when selecting a gear, it feels like the clutch isn’t fully “letting off” or “clearing”. It takes a couple of tries to find gears. This is most noticeable on reverse, where there is almost always a grind, and then it drops into gear. 1st and 2nd are also hard to select, but 3rd and 4th are pretty reliable.
The mechanical linkage doesn’t feel sloppy. I’ve adjusted the clutch operating rod (part # 236835 or 217986), to get the max possible throw - any more and the lever it connects to would be hitting the chassis (see pics).
So I feel like the clutch is mainly working as it should, but it’s not quite fully disengaging/getting to full neutral. What do you think? Can the three jam nuts on the clutch itself be used for adjustment? Cheers
released.jpgdepressed.jpg
Master
SupporterSounds like the input shaft is still spinning even though the clutch is depressed. Could be due to binding in the bush or bearing in the centre of the flywheel, or the friction plate being distorted, which can happen when trying to line up the gearbox to the motor. My experience with British gearboxes from that era is that first and reverse are often “ scrunchy” to select, sometimes it helps to select second then first before starting off.
Cheers,
Woolly.
LordRover
SubscriberOr the driven plate is sticking on the splines. Did you apply some lube to them? Not oil, obviously.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
RoverLord
Most likely issue is perhaps that the clutch release shaft is incorrectly engaged in the splines of the clutch release fork, probably one spline off.
Another possibility is that the release fingers on the pressure plate (clutch cover in LR terminology) are not correctly adjusted - these need to be adjusted to exactly the same height with the driven plate in place. If the pressure plate is loose on the flywheel, it will also cause this effect.
A suggestion. If you remove the transmission tunnel and the gearlever this uncovers a hole in the bell housing. You may be able to see what is happening at the actual clutch plate.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Member
SupporterThanks Woolly, Tins and JDNSW. I'll give those a try.
And yes, I applied copper anti-seize to the splines.
Member
SupporterGot help and the issue is now resolved. In case anyone has similar symptoms, the clutch friction plate was too thick (maybe a heavy duty version) fitting standard one fixed it.
LordRover
Subscriberthat would do it..Originally Posted by Specimen
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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