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Thread: How did this happen?!?! Broke right front half shaft on 81' SIII 109 Military 6-pot

  1. #1
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    How did this happen?!?! Broke right front half shaft on 81' SIII 109 Military 6-pot

    Wondering if this group has ever seen this before, and if so, can they possibly explain to me how this happened? Was replacing the swivel bearing that supports the half shaft, hub bearings, gaskets and reworking the brakes for proper bite. Never heard a loud pop or break like what I've heard before when I've blown a CV or axle shaft. Truck was not in 4x4 and was only being driven on pavement. Discovered this when I was test driving the truck after the work above. Always take my infrared thermometer to measure the heat of the hubs, wheel, brakes, etc. to insure I haven't screwed up the pre-load on the bearings. Drove out of my driveway about a half mile and stopped to take temps. Noticed the right front side was warm. Warmer by about 34 degrees Fahrenheit. Touched the back of the brake drum, and felt around behind the wheel to see if the heat was centralized. I only felt the heat on the drive flange and the wheel cap that covers the cotter pin and the nut holding the hub nuts in place. Drove immediately back home. temps around that wheel remained the same.

    Put the truck on jack stands and spun the front and back wheels. When spinning the front right wheel neither the left tire or drive shaft spun. Hmmm?!?!?. Removed the wheel, drive flange, brake drum, and hub and a piece of the half shaft came out. Tried to remove the spindle, but the other remaining piece of the half shaft had welded to the inside of the spindle. Ok, so follow along here: I couldn't remove the spindle because the half shaft had welded to the inside. Normally I believe that you should be able to remove the shaft without having to remove the hub and swivel, BUT since the swivel bearing that fits around the half shaft in the back of the swivel stub on the right side was not a two piece bearing with a main bearing and then a center collar piece (see picture) I couldn't pull the half shaft out due to the retainer collar being unable to slide past/through the swivel bearing. For the record, the left side has the correct two piece bearing allowing the half shaft retainer collar to slide through the center of the swivel bearing.

    Long story short, I'm a little perplexed as to how this could have happened. Since the half shaft is supported by the swivel bearing (which is a good bearing even though it's not a two piece bearing with a separate center collar) and drive flange (which is also supported by the swivel housing and upper and lower swivel bearings. At this point, and I'm in the process of cleaning and inspecting parts, I'm wondering if the U-joint in the half shaft failed causing a massive binding of the out half shaft and the heat generated and the expansion due to the massive heat fused it to the spindle?!?!?!? I literally had to cut the spindle into pieces to remove it from the remaining piece of the half shaft.

    Also, when I was reinstalling nothing was binding and the wheel and half shaft spun freely.

    Thoughts?

    IMG_6692.jpgIMG_6694.jpgIMG_6700.jpgIMG_6702.jpgScreenshot 2024-03-11 at 15.10.14.jpg

  2. #2
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    I think the non-standard bearing might be the problem.
    The bearing with the separate inner race allows the half shaft to move. As you corner the shaft moves so that the UJ finds the centre of the turning axis.
    By using a bearing that doesn't allow the shaft to float, as you corner it would have been trying to bend the shaft backwards & forwards if the UJ wasn't on the centre of the turning axis. Or it would have created heat as it tried to slide backwards & forwards through the inner race of the bearing.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
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  3. #3
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    As Colin says, but other possibilities are a bent axle housing giving the same results - bending the axle shaft. Probably unlikely, but some Series 3 parts have been less than up to standard. The break reminds me of one I saw many years ago on a rear axle shaft of an IH R190, that was almost certainly due to incorrect heat treatment of the shaft.

    Broken front axle shafts on Series Landrovers are extremely rare (unlike rears) - I have been driving and repairing Series Landrovers for almost sixty-five years, and have never actually seen one in the flesh. Failed swivel U-joints are not uncommon (usually due to using water or mud filled swivel housings), but I have never seen one cause a broken shaft.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    And it happened again!!!!!!!!

    Have had this happen twice on the right front side so going back to my original questions to see if we can possibly figure this out. Is this due to a faulty hub bearing allowing the hub to shift which forces the half shaft to bind into the inside of spindle OR is this a balance issue due to the half shaft U-joint being installed incorrectly?!?!? After the first incident, detailed above, I ordered a new half shaft and inspected and reinstalled. Same result.

    This truck is a former Australian military that was registered for service in 2/18/1981. This was a knock down kit assembled in Australian so I don’t know when the parts were actually manufactured and shipped which is relevant since there were design changes to the half shafts, drive flanges and spindles around that time.

    This truck has a 24 spline half shaft and drive flange which I believe is the later design change since the earlier models had a 10 spline. But, the bearings in the hub are different sizes which should identify it as the earlier type of hub. The front left and right sides are the same in their parts. No differences.

    So I’m not sure if I have a mix of parts, but I’ve put 5,000 miles on this truck and it was only when I was simply replacing the bearings, gaskets and seals in the hub/swivel/spindle(stub axel) that I started to have this occur. The first time it occurred I had installed spindles from Rovers North(PLB413) and all seemed fine during the install. The second time I used the original spindle (one with a pressed on race). Both times I put the truck on axle stands and ran it while checking the temps around the drive flanges and brake drums, etc. Both times after only a few minutes of running the right half shaft began to bind in the spindle. Prior to the test run on axle stands I spun the wheels and looked for any binding. There were no signs that anything was unusual.

    I’m looking for someone who might be able to shed some light on what is going and how is this happening.


    IMG_6757.jpgIMG_6756.jpg

  5. #5
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    Just a brief thought while I wait for the kettle. You say it's happened again. But it hasn't. It's happened in the same place, sure, but the two are completely different, going by the pics. The first shows a clean break, which is what they usually do ( admit I have never seen a front break ) with some evidence of heat bluing of the shaft. This time something has clearly "spun", and thus worn or in this case gouged the shaft. Without being there I'd suspect a hub bearing failure in the second case, cause unknown without seeing the installation.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

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  6. #6
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    It might appear to be two different types of issues but the only reason they don’t look the same is that I stopped the truck before letting it go so far that it broke the half shaft. Had I let the wheels continue spinning I have no doubt it would have eventually broken the shaft and grinded down the ends smooth just like the first set of pics.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by matthamilton View Post
    It might appear to be two different types of issues but the only reason they don’t look the same is that I stopped the truck before letting it go so far that it broke the half shaft. Had I let the wheels continue spinning I have no doubt it would have eventually broken the shaft and grinded down the ends smooth just like the first set of pics.
    I only have the pics to go by but I can't agree with that. The first set of pics show a clean shear. Broken axles usually look like that, although often they occur at the splines. There is absolutely no sign of any rotational wear at the break. The second set shows a very obvious rotational failure, possibly a faulty bearing but also possibly a failure of lubrication. I bet if you measured the length of the first one, both pieces combined, you would find no loss of material, and so no grinding down. If the two pieces had been in contact the way you assume you would see signs of shatter. The axle material is brittle, which is why you see such clean snaps.

    Happy to be proven wrong, but I spent four years as a mech in the Aus Army back in the day and have seen a few Series axle failures. Admittedly, Series IIA, but the principle is the same.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

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  8. #8
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    I would be checking king pin alignment do you have the correct parts installed there are several combinations of front swivel components. The photos seem to indicate a misalignment between the solid axle housing and the swivel joint. I don’t know if you have a manual you can use the link below.

    Series III Workshop Manual - Land Rover Technical Blog

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gippslander View Post
    I would be checking king pin alignment do you have the correct parts installed there are several combinations of front swivel components. The photos seem to indicate a misalignment between the solid axle housing and the swivel joint. I don’t know if you have a manual you can use the link below.

    Series III Workshop Manual - Land Rover Technical Blog
    Good point. They are different to IIA a bit. I was wondering if they had got swapped left to right or something simple like that. Not sure if that can happen on a III. 45 years since I left the Army, bit hazy on the details.

    That bearing failure is epic.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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  10. #10
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    It's a serious misalignment somewhere to cause the half shaft to rub inside the stub axle like that.
    Early models had a bush in the stub axle but Land Rover discontinued this as there was no need. Lots of clearance so I'm trying to work out how the half-shaft has rubbed inside the stub axle on your vehicle.

    I can't see from the pictures but does the swivel ball have a Railco bush, I can only see one side with a taper roller bearing ?
    If so did you replace both the Railco & taper roller at the same time ?

    The Railco bush & taper roller bearing are the same OD so is it possible you inserted them in the wrong holes ??
    This would tip the wheel when everything was back together but could, I think, cause the problem.

    Otherwise.....
    You said you tested it on axle stands, did you turn the steering from side to side, full lock to full lock ?
    The non-standard bearing is, as mentioned before, a possible problem but if it then happened with the correct bearing fitted there is something else going on.
    The fact that it first happened after you changed bearings etc. has to be a clue......

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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