Have you checked the main jet is nice and clean?
 Fossicker
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberHi everyone. Back consulting the brains trust on another carburettor question. I'm reasonably happy with the Solex I have on the 2.25 petrol in my Series II, but there's still one bugbear I haven't been able to work out.
On a really sharp throttle application, the kind you might make on a hill start, the engine bogs down and chugs out a bunch of black smoke, like it's running far too rich.
It's happy at idle, and it starts easy enough (but could be better). And it's superb once moving. The curious part is, once it's made it past the initial 20% of throttle travel, it's happy again. It's almost like the accelerator pump is too aggressive?
With that hypothesis in mind, I had a look at the shaft and there are a couple of holes on there, so there is a little adjustment. But thinking about how an accelerator pump works, I'd have thought it should be just barely on the stop at idle, in which case it's already adjust correctly. Does anyone have experience adjusting this, or any other ideas about what might be worth looking at?
I've checked the fuel pressure isn't too high, that the needle is seating correctly, and I vaguely remember checking the float depth but it may have been a while ago.
Cheers,
- Will
Have you checked the main jet is nice and clean?
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
is the accelerator pump linkage and pump check valve setup correctly?
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberNo, I would certainly do that if I pull the carb apart. But I'm hoping not to get to that point :-) That said, wouldn't that be a problem all across the rev range? Or am I oversimplifying?
No idea. Is there a manual somewhere I can read? I don't think it's in the Land Rover workshop manual.
Here's a photo of the setup, although you probably can't tell just from the picture.
PXL_20241209_085635871.jpg
In the photo, it's currently set on the middle hole (of three), I've moved it down to the hole on the very end and in the quick (~1 minute) I had it running, it seemed a little happier. But I'll have to let it warm up and give it a proper drive to be sure.
thats your accelerator pump linkage.
inside the carby (and this is generic info not just solext specific) there is usually a one way valve into the accelerator pump, this closes when the pump has pressure applied to it so fuel can be pumped out the accelerator pumps orifice into the carbies throat.
IF this fails open you can loose the effect of the pump (fuel flows back into the bowl) as well as have raw fuel dump out the orifice in a near continuous manner.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
No, you don't have to pull the Solex apart to clean the main jet. It's a 9/16AF (I think, it's been decades since I've done this) brass fixing on the left hand side of the carby. I have a manual here somewhere, I'll take a look and post a pic a bit later. I have visitors.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
See attached pages from a 1963 Workshop Manual. Be careful, ignore the bits about the 2 Litre carby. It's a hi res file, so you can zoom in on the pages. Couldn't scan the pages as it's a bound manual, so had to resort to taking pics on phone and converting them to a pdf.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
 Fossicker
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberCheers - I found the part on the manual that DieselLSE posted. It was easy to remove/check/reinstall, no issues as far as I could tell. Let air one way but not the other, so no obvious issue. Worth checking though, it's something I can rule out.
Correct - thank you! I pulled it out just now and unfortunately it was clean as a whistle. I say unfortunately because it would've been a real simple diagnosis/fix if it was dirty.
Cheers, I found these diagrams much clearer than the ones in my copy of the manual. Do you have a part number/publication number/ISBN for your manual? Feels like there's a few versions floating around.
I'll hold out until the weekend (when I can take on a long run and get it warm) before tackling/adjusting much more.
No ISBN
Published by The Rover Company Limited
Technical Publication No. TP/344/A Part No. 4611 December 1963
Ist Edition
Printed by Joseph Wones Limited, West Bromwich, Staffs 36814 (checked UK company records and they are listed as printers in the 1950's and 1960's. The holding company was dissolved in 2015 so you won't have much luck there).
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
 Fossicker
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberMinor update: took it out earlier this week, got it nice and warm. It's a lot better now - I think it really was just the accelerator pump needing to be less aggressive. Thanks for the pointers, everyone!
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks