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Thread: Electronic Voltage Stabiliser for fuel & temperature gauges

  1. #1
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    Electronic Voltage Stabiliser for fuel & temperature gauges

    I'd been intending to make a solid state stabiliser for some time.
    Lots of info on the Internet on British car forums so I'd ordered some transistors for a ridiculously low price on Ebay but never got round to pulling a stabiliser apart.

    Then a friend mentioned he had issues with his fuel & temperature gauge so .....time to make one.

    As I mentioned, lots of info out there, here are a couple of links :-
    How to make your own Voltage Regulator... - The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum
    How To: Replace Your MGB Thermal Voltage Stabilizer

    Some mention adding capacitors on the input & output, I didn't bother.

    First job is to carefully open the original case and remove the old electro mechanical parts. I love the headless self-tapper screwed in from outside as an adjustment mechanism !
    The centre leg of the transistor can be cut off as this is an earth and the heat sink is also an earth connection which you use to bolt the transistor into the case.
    Solder on a couple of short wires to the two legs and solder to the back of the original Lucar terminals.
    Re-assemble & test.

    I connected to a 12V battery the output was exactly 10 Volts !
    Supplied the completed unit and it's solved the problems being experienced, I've made another for my own use at some point in the future and have spare transistors.

    I didn't take many pictures but can add more when I (eventually) make another.

    Colin
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    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  2. #2
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    The first one failed in use !

    Seems that the legs are a bit delicate and the vibration of the Land Rover caused one to break off the transistor flush with the body.
    Next model I'll have to either silicon fill before re-crimping or at least epoxy the body, leg and the soldered joint.

    I'll also look at more expensive units on Ebay, maybe they have stronger legs.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  3. #3
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Sounds like the wires you connected to the legs might have been too heavy. The required current is relatively small, try thinner wires with a small coil for strain relief. Also, clip the leads as short as you can practically solder to. A much smaller lever for movement that way. Checking your photo, they're pretty long and it looks like there'd be quite a bit of constant strain when the lid is pushed closed.

    Back when I was an apprentice I built one for my old 144 Volvo. I put the reg on the lid of the tin and had the leads soldered into a small bit of Vero board which was epoxied into the lid. The wires then connected to there.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Sounds like the wires you connected to the legs might have been too heavy. The required current is relatively small, try thinner wires with a small coil for strain relief. Also, clip the leads as short as you can practically solder to. A much smaller lever for movement that way.
    Thanks Brad,
    That did cross my mind but it was the only wire I had to hand at the time.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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