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Thread: Series 3 heater connection problems

  1. #1
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    Series 3 heater connection problems

    Hi - thanks for reading.


    I am trying to connect the heater hoses. I have installed a 300TDi engine with a conversion kit. I am struggling to get the hoses, switch (tap) and heater connection to work together.


    My question is around the tap is it okay to have the hot water enter the bottom of the heater and the hose tap be on the hose coming out the top ( see blue arrow)?


    I would cut the hose from the engine so it is not touching the engine.


    The hose in the kit is also a few mm bigger than the heater connection. Does anyone know of a product (ie tape?) to make the connection a wider diameter.


    Thanks,
    Chris

    IMG_7997.jpg

  2. #2
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    If by “switch “ you mean the tap then I don’t think it would matter. It just stops the flow. But I guess there will be argument.

    Could you please give some info about the kit you used for the 300? Have you kept the turbo?Are you using the Series gearbox? I have a S111 that would love to have a 300 in it.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #3
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    thanks Jay - yes I meant tap.

    Happy to provide any info on the conversion. Not sure it was the wisest choice to do the conversion on my first Series but I have loved the journey. I bought a Steve Parkers 300TDi conversion kit from the UK. The kit keeps the turbo and joins the standard series gearbox (with a little bit of angle grinding help . That said I have also put on a Fairy overdrive as a precaution.

    Here are some photos. But please feel free to message me and I can talk you through the process and all the lessons I have learnt. I am based in the Northern Suburbs of Sydney if you are also in the area.

    Thanks, Chris

    IMG_8002 (1).jpgIMG_8004.jpg

  4. #4
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    Looks great. Steve’s site is down, but I’m in no hurry. But I have a S111 and a very untidy D1 as a donor car. I would need to talk to an engineer I guess.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Hi Chris,
    It's my understanding that a 300 tdi heater it part of the cooling circuit, and must not be blocked off, either with a tap or by blocking the heater hoses.

    If you need to disconnect heater you must run a hose from the steel pipe above the inlet manifold to the water connection on the back of the head.

    Tony

  6. #6
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    Good point. You can get a bypass tap that switches from one circuit to the other. Have to be careful with bleeding I guess.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #7
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    Thank you for the further information - makes it a little more complicated or fun - depending on which way I look at it.

  8. #8
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    The Tdi Likes to have constant flow, Id be using something like this

    Attention Required! | Cloudflare

    with a t piece in the other line
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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