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Thread: Front diff question

  1. #1
    drifter Guest

    Front diff question

    I have looked and searched - and want confirmation...

    The 109" 2a I am restoring has a borked diff. I dropped the front prop shaft and I can move the driving flange a considerable distance in either direction before I feel it meeting any resistance. If I were to measure it at one of the bolt holes, it would be around 1" of movement overall.

    I have a donor 88" 2a but I haven't checked the diff on that yet.

    What I am wondering...

    Can I just swap the complete diffs over and just replace the brake assemblies (I have new backing plates, shoes, slave cylinders for a 109" here) or should I just bite the bullet and haul out the axles, drop the diff and replace it with another one?

    Apart from the brakes, is there any other difference between the two complete diff assemblies?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Timj is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Hi Drifter,

    I just did a job on my S3 Game that proved to be not needed. I noticed the same sort of play so I pulled the swivel hubs and axles and took out the diff. I then checked it for backlash and it was well within tolerances so I put it all back in again. I think there is just so much combined play in things like hubs, universals and axle splines that it seems too much. Check the other diff first and you will probably see the same amount of play if it is all together. If every part was brand new it would probably be better but I am not sure.

    TimJ.
    Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
    Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
    Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
    Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

  3. #3
    drifter Guest
    Thanks Tim


    John

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Hi,

    Apart for brakes and things I think its a pretty stright swap.

    My 2A has a SWB front axle. Been there for as long as its been in the family. It has the LWB drums on the front. Only thing is that when ordering new U bolts for the springs a SWB axle has one that is squareish rather than nice and curved....

  5. #5
    drifter Guest
    Thanks for that - appreciated.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Hi there old fella - have you finally got around to doing some work on your project?

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #7
    drifter Guest
    Hey! - yeah. Have been sanding and painting today - more little bits and pieces - floor panels and the like.

    Toad and Toadette called in tonight on their way back from Sydney so he can confirm I actually have 2 Series 2's here in my front yard

    We talked about a couple of options so that's all good.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by drifter View Post
    I actually have 2 Series 2's here in my front yard
    I was beginning to think they were a bit of a myth.

    Good to see you at it though.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #9
    drifter Guest
    Ta

    Every time I look, though, I see more (expensive) bits I need to replace. It is very discouraging.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Stick with it mate!

    First thing i ever decided to buy for the car was a new door hinge. And ended about $5000 later...but i enjoy it SO much now.

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