Removing Shocks

[Kelly928]

I have just replaced rear springs and had to undo lower nut on shock to drop the axle to replace springs.

The shock turns with the nut so I used vice grips on the end of the shock pin but almost completely rounded the end. Then I managed to crack open the nut, just, by holding the shock body with stilsons (pipe wrench) but this was very difficult.

Does anyone have any tips for this process or holding the shock whilst undoing the nut? I need to drop the axle again this weekend to install spacers.

Also worried that I havent done up the nut tight enough.

Thanks
Kelly

[dmdigital]

Usually a small open ended spanner (can't remember the size but I think it's about 9mm) will hold the bottom of the shock whilst you undo/tighten the nut. If you have rounded this flat sided part of the shock's pin part though vice-grips or pipe wrench are about it. Some shocks also allow for a hex key to be inserted into the end.

As to how tight: I usually make sure there is a visible amount of thread showing (2 to 4 turns) past the nut. Not very accurate, but you don't want to over compress the rubbers. I then check them in a few days.

[Kelly928]

Thanks DM.

I started out with open ended spanner...no go. Then went vice grips....no go...then pipe wrench. It was on pretty damn tight. So were the nuts for spring retaining plate. On one of em had to use a Dremmel to cut the nut and bolt (this wasnt easy either). But its all good now.

I counted about 4 threads after nut and will keep an eye on it.

[Xtreme]

The following torque figures are as specified in the RAVE manual for Defender. Incorrect torque can contribute/lead to early failure of bushes.

TORQUE VALUES
NOTE: Torque wrenches should be regularly checked for accuracy to ensure that all fixings are tightened to the correct torque.
Nm
Anti-roll bar
- Strap nyloc nuts 30 .................................................. ............................
- Ball link self lock nut 68 .................................................. ......................
- Castellated nut 40 .................................................. ..............................
Top link to mounting bracket 176 .................................................. ...................
Bottom link to axle 176 .................................................. ...................................
Bottom link to chassis 176 .................................................. .............................
Top link bracket to rear cross member 47 .................................................. ....
Shock absorber to axle 37 N .................................................. ..........................

[roverrescue]

IME the best technique (soma may argue only) is the use of a rattle gun.
hold shock body with you hand then let the gun do its job.
Tighten with a spanner of course

S

[Benny_IIA]

I use these

[Kelly928]

Yup thats what I ended up using.

[Tikirocker]

I've seen Landy mechs and most other 4wd mechs using a chain wrench for the job.

Simon.

[LowRanger]

I have found that a strap type oil filter removal tool is ideal for holding the shocks,and it tends to spread any pressure evenly around the shock body and doesn't damage the shock,unlike stilsons,which I have seen put dents in shock bodies,which isn't good,particularly on single body shocks.And as mentioned,one of the biggest destroyers of shock bushes is people with heavy hands.You don't want to deform the bushes when they are in a rested state,if they are,then they are either too tight or the incorrect bushes,or if the suspension has been modified,the shock angle incorrect.And check them for tightness after 100km or so and then at 1000km.

Wayne