Leaky water pump

[Bandicoot]

Hi All, I have recently replaced a water pump in 2 Lt 1957 series 1 engine but having trouble sealing the opening between pump top and thermo housing above. I've put in a new O ring with lots of blue silicon but still leaking. This must be a common problem as it seems to be a bad design, does anyone have a suggestion?
Cheers
Mal

[series1buff]

Mal

They originally used a copper ring that the rubber seal sits around . The problem is , as you tighten down the thing , the O ring tends to squash to one side and leak . It needs to be a tight fit in the recess to locate it .

I ended up making a rubber seal that fits snugly into the recess on top of the pump.. you don't want any sideways movement of the seal , it has to be a tight or snug fit in the recess. I cut a seal from a rubber sheet and it worked OK .

I used No. 3 permatex gasket sealer

Mike

[russellrovers]

Hi All, I have recently replaced a water pump in 2 Lt 1957 series 1 engine but having trouble sealing the opening between pump top and thermo housing above. I've put in a new O ring with lots of blue silicon but still leaking. This must be a common problem as it seems to be a bad design, does anyone have a suggestion?
Cheers
Mal

it must sit central and the copper ring must be installed its not s jim a common rega

[russellrovers]

Hi All, I have recently replaced a water pump in 2 Lt 1957 series 1 engine but having trouble sealing the opening between pump top and thermo housing above. I've put in a new O ring with lots of blue silicon but still leaking. This must be a common problem as it seems to be a bad design, does anyone have a suggestion?
Cheers
Mal

it must sit central and the copper ring must be installed its not a common problem regards jim

[Scallops]

Doesn't this just give one the ****s? I had the same issue with a new water pump - it was 3mm out of tolerance, which, if you bought the $200.00 modern replacement job, might be your problem too. There is a thread on it. The out of tolerance bit was the same space - between the pump and thermostat housing.

So what I did was send it back, and buy some NOS parts to rebuilt my original pump.

I got my parts here....

Land Rover Parts, Landrover Parts - Genuine Land Rover spares and parts, Auckland, New Zealand

PS - BTW - it isn't listed on their website - give them a call, they have the parts - cost about $80.00 delivered as I recall.

Keeps the rivet counters happy, too!

[BETSY]

Anyone know where to get the copper spacer 09197 as I have the same problem.

Will remove tomorrow to see if the new water pump has a thread as I did not fit it.

O ring 09170 (R243959)
Copper ring 09197

Thanks,

Chris

[series1buff]

Get hold of a bit of copper pipe , diameter to suit your rubber seal , cut a short bit off the pipe , about 3mm wide and flare the ends out - place a steel ball on the ring and press it each side until it flares out . Squeeze the rubber over the ring .

Mike

[ellard]

Hi there

This may seem strange - but I have used rubber o'rings in my 1954.

Wayne

[back_in]

Hi All
the one thing you all over look is----------------
make sure you clean out both top and bottom surface
remove crap i.e. rust, scale,flakey paint etc etc
make sure your o ring is sound and round
the copper ring is need for longevity
without can work, then blow out when it feels like it
as you tighten the bolts have your oversize mate pushing down on the housing so to have pressure on the o ring
having the housing attached to the head before pulling down is the best way
remember silicon is not a high pressure cure all
cheers all
Ian

[series1buff]

This is the original setup

The copper ring is

.27" wide

.58" OD measured at flares

The OD of the centre is .5"

.42" ID