Fuel Tank Repair

[gromit]

The tank on my 86" sprang a leak and had a fair bit of rust in it so I've taken it out ready to put a liner system in it.
I have another tank which is in much better condition internally but the support cradle (for want of a better description) has partly separated from the tank.

It looks like its been 'hung up' on the fuel tank at some point in it's life, the tank lifted and tore part of the cradle away from the solder joints to the tank.
Problem is that to de-rust the cradle properly for re-soldering I need to completely remove it. The alternative is to try and clean it the best I can and try to resolder it back in place. The weight of the fuel will hold the tank in place in the cradle but I would like to try and re-solder it so it doesn't go walkabout.

Has anyone repaired one of these tanks ? If so I'm hoping that they could point me in the right direction ?

My aim is to put the liner system in the original tank and then any leftover sealant can be used to put a liner into the second tank so it becomes either a spare or ready for that next project.......!


Colin

[back_in]

Hi Colin
a very capable friend has repaired 2
firstly by removing one from the other and cleaning then using Stickafex (not sure of the spelling) stuck and glued and clamped the lot back together
2nd spent a very long time cleaning tank and cradle (cleanliness next to Godliness) then using a flame on a iron then soldered the lot.
when asked if he did another which way he would go was solder it
You have to clean up back to steel to defeat the rust what ever you do
cheers
Ian

[gromit]

Ian,

My concern was do I unsolder the half that's still joined so I can clean it up properly or try and clean as best I can (back to bare metal) the half that's 'unstuck' and just re-solder that.
I know in my own mind I should remove the cradle and do it properly, especially considering the overall state of the tank. It just delays the fixing of my original tank because I want to put a liner in both at the same time.....


Colin

[back_in]

Colin
do it properly the first time
something I have learnt if nothing else, over 60 odd years
after spending time taking the short cut, then spending more time fixing it correctly
pull it apart there will rust in there that has to removed
to repair leaks use PVC water pipe cement and primer
mix ratio 4:1
after doing your soldering, pour plenty in and coat sides as well
coats rust, seals holes etc, mate of mine did a Falcon in the middle 70's and still sound
I did my 109 rebuild tank over 2 years ago, touch wood still ok
cheers
Ian

[series1buff]

Is it safe to use those old fashioned manual heat up soldering irons around petrol tanks ? I guess it is . The lump of pointy copper on a wooden handle . I used them at high school , we were taught that you check the temp. by holding the iron next to your cheek The nanny state would have a fit if kids did that today.

[fc110]

Is it safe to use those old fashioned manual heat up soldering irons around petrol tanks ? I guess it is .

After washing & drying tanks, I've flame soldered them by filling the tank with water leaving only the area/seam being soldered out of the water, a little bit at a time. It also has the benefit of making the temp easier to control .

[gromit]

The tank I have to fix hasn't seen petrol for about 10 years so it should be safe.

I picked up a big Birko soldering iron for $2 at a local trash & treasure a while ago, when I plug it in the lights in the workshop dim ! That should be powerful enough to do the job.
Also found it handy for soldering in new brushes on a couple of starter motors.


Colin

[series1buff]

The tank I have to fix hasn't seen petrol for about 10 years so it should be safe.

I picked up a big Birko soldering iron for $2 at a local trash & treasure a while ago, when I plug it in the lights in the workshop dim ! That should be powerful enough to do the job.
Also found it handy for soldering in new brushes on a couple of starter motors.


Colin

I would fill it with exhaust gas while using any iron, even the birko. It makes you feel comfortable, in that you know it won't blow up under any circumstances . It is so easy to run a pipe into it from a idling engine . Mike

[back_in]

Hi Colin

In a earlier life
I was a PMG Tech
when soldering
large metal area's
use the biggest mother of a iron you can find, heat is very thing
every thing including the tank within 30 mm of the liquid solder must be the same temp
and use sulphuric acid to clean up the steel, then use Bakers with the solder
do not use flux solder, ok for copper etc
I have made water tanks, fuel tanks, plumb the lot
BUT make sure every thing is clean, clean it a couple of times, will save you a lot of grief
a little news, your Birko will be hard pressed to do the Job, not enough HEAT
cheers
Ian

[123rover50]

Colin
do it properly the first time
something I have learnt if nothing else, over 60 odd years
after spending time taking the short cut, then spending more time fixing it correctly
pull it apart there will rust in there that has to removed
to repair leaks use PVC water pipe cement and primer
mix ratio 4:1
after doing your soldering, pour plenty in and coat sides as well
coats rust, seals holes etc, mate of mine did a Falcon in the middle 70's and still sound
I did my 109 rebuild tank over 2 years ago, touch wood still ok
cheers
Ian

Ian. Can you tell us more of your tank coating materials. They sound as good as the bought ones.
Keith