Rear Spring Shackle Bolt/Nut Removal

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,
61 Series 2 - LWB Ute.
I am replacing the rear springs on my Landy today (amongst other things!).
The nut/bolt on the front of the rear spring is stuck on tight.
I have ground the head of the bolt off on one side, hoping that it would pop through - but no luck at all. (I have used this trick on other bolts/nuts and it has always worked a treat).
I have WD40'd the bolt.
Whacked it with a hammer.
Nothing will move it...
Suggestions?
I'm running out of ideas!
Thanks as always,
The Grey Ghost!

[isuzurover]

Which bolt?

The shackles are threaded.

Spring/shackle bolts are commonly seized to the bush tubes. It may be necessary to cut through the bolt and the bush tube with a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder.

[JDNSW]

As Isuzurover says. It is likely that you will have to cut through the pin between the bracket and the spring leaf. At the front of the spring, it is not threaded into the cheek as it is with the actual shackle.

John

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,
Thanks for the help.
The nut/bolt combination that I was having a HUGE amount of problem was the threaded nut that goes through the eye/bush of the leaf spring, that then connects to the chassis bracket.

In the end I:
Cut through the leaf spring horizontally (I am replacing it anyway).
Throw the leaf spring in the bin - it is totally stuffed (twisted, cracked, rusted, pinched)
Cut through the leaf spring vertically (through the bush and the bolt).

My main problem was - the middle of the bolt (not the threaded end that the nut connects to or the head end) was THICKER than the threaded portion. It would not go through the whole in the bracket - not matter what I did.

Strange. Perhaps the metal had somehow expanded? All I know is - I had to cut the bolt down the middle, cut the head of the bolt off, and then push both parts inwards to remove them.

It took about 2 hours to remove just one rear leaf spring - hopefully the others won't be so bad...



I am replacing all of the shackle pins/bolts/nuts/brackets.

Thanks everyone for your help - to a novice like me this website is a fantastic source of information.

Regards,
The Grey Ghost!

[isuzurover]

If you haven't purchased springs, I suggest buying good quality OEM (i.e. old, original in good nick) ones and having them reset.

IME, new rover springs are not as good quality steel as the originals.


EDITED to correct error

[JDNSW]

Hi All,
........
My main problem was - the middle of the bolt (not the threaded end that the nut connects to or the head end) was THICKER than the threaded portion. It would not go through the whole in the bracket - not matter what I did.

Strange. Perhaps the metal had somehow expanded? All I know is - I had to cut the bolt down the middle, cut the head of the bolt off, and then push both parts inwards to remove them.
.....
Regards,
The Grey Ghost!

The only explanation I can see for this is that the inner tube from the rubber bush was so thoroughly welded to the bolt by rust that it appeared to be one piece. When reassembling the spring, remember to use a suitable antiseize compound to stop this happening in the future. If you still have the bits you should be able to confirm this.

John

[dandlandyman]

On early 2as (and back into series 2s and 1s) the shank of the bolt is thicker than the thread (1/2" BSF if I recall). Later bolts are the same thickness shank and thread (9/16" UNF I think). The bushes remained the same, though. As mentioned before, it's very common for the inner sleeve of the bush to rust itself terminally to the bolt. Use plenty of grease/antiseize on reassembly.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (still in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (still resting), plus others and more coming.