Maybe every snatch strap sold needs a tag (on both ends) saying in big red letters NOT to attach to a tow-ball.....
You can bet people will still ignore this though.
You do wonder at times whether many people read 4WD magazines, are in a 4WD club, or if any at all do any 4WD driver training.
What has brought on this cynicism you may ask?
The first situation that caused me to frustratingly think like that was late last year when the Coroner down in Tassie released his finding on a death of a young four wheeler, killed when a tow ball struck him during a recovery operation.
Basically what had happened was a ute had got bogged, a Cruiser came to snatch him out and the snatch strap was dropped over the towball of the ute's towbar. When the Cruiser drove off to snatch him out, the towball snapped smashing through the windscreen of the Cruiser and striking the person in the head. The ball then passed through the vehicle and landed some 90 metres away!
The Coroners report ended in part with:
Having considered all the material before me I recommend that the motoring public, particularly those using 4WD vehicles be made aware and reminded of the dangers of using snatch straps in recovery operations.
Well, every 4WD magazine in the country has been doing that for years while every 4WD club and training organisation preaches much the same thing. But still the message isn't getting through and I just wonder what you have to do to let people know how bloody dangerous recovery operations, whether that is with a snatch strap or a winch, can be.
Still, we'll say it again. Don't join snatch straps with a D-shackle or use a towball, no matter how easy that seems, to connect a snatch strap to a vehicle. Both can become deadly missiles if a strap or a towball breaks!
It may, to an untrained eye, seem innocuous enough but a hi-lift jack of whatever make or model is a bloody dangerous tool in the wrong hands.
And these guys have, very much, the wrong hands!
Hi-lift jacks are designed as a recovery tool and are very unstable. That instability can be put to good use but this case isn't one of them. Just imagine if that hi-lifter had slipped or fallen over? The bloke who is completely wedged in the wheel arch of the vehicle would have been history - messy history, but still history!
Now if the guys who done this, see this yarn they'll probably bluff and bluster how safe they were and how they knew what they were doing. Sorry, but they are wrong on all accounts!!
Once again magazines, clubs and training organisations tell people never, ever get under a vehicle on a hi-lift jack – and this is one of the very worst examples I’ve seen!
In the wrong hangs we've seen some 'interesting' accidents happen with hi-lifters over the years - people getting smacked in the head with the handle, handles crushing fingers, the jacks steel bar ripping through a vehicle's door skin and more of the same. Luckily no one has been injured badly or killed, but it can and does happen. Hi-lift jacks need some very careful and well trained handling.
Four wheelin' is fun, as it is meant to be. Sadly it can also turn to heartache if something goes wrong. If you're new to the game, or are about to try something you have never tried before, do some training, or at the very least get some expert advice before plunging in where angels fear to tread!
Maybe every snatch strap sold needs a tag (on both ends) saying in big red letters NOT to attach to a tow-ball.....
You can bet people will still ignore this though.
It's always good to discuss safety, especially given the possible consequences of a mishap in these sorts of situations. The thing is, you tend to read a lot of conflicting or confusing stuff about what is or is not safe. Is there a definitive statement as to safe methods of attaching a snatch strap to a vehicle?
It would be good to have one, as there are (for example) many aftermarket front bars with tow hooks/eyelets/etc and not all of them look especially robust. That's assuming the bar itself is attached to the vehicle properly.
As for the photo, I'm pretty sure someone here also had a photo of some bloke stepping over a winch rope under tension, wearing stubbies and thongs and holding a beer.
Good reminder of the dangers of recovery! Being a new and young 4wheeler (17)this would be good info to know.
I prevously knew the associated dangers of recovery and have seen a few videos of winch cables snaping, it is amazing the force they can be under! I guess figuring out that a steel cable pulling a dead weight of over 2 tonnes out of mud ect is quite a large mass, but it still amazes me how many people dont put recovery winch bags or even a rubber mat over their winch cable to help direct it to the ground, instead of towards the air in the event of breakage!
Regarding towballs they are meant for downwards force and not horizontal, resulting in them snapping at the weakest, narrowest part. Isn't this just plain common sense??
Snatch straps are under a HUGE load too, having a vehicle (usually over 2 tonnes) pulling another vehicle of close to the same weight with friction adding to it and moving at a slight speed results in forces of over 5-6 tonnes!! Attacing it to a tow ball or D shackle is just waiting for an accident to happen!!
Regarding High lift jacks, the only time you should be under a car is when it is on the ground, on axle stands or a lift. They are scary tools.
Sorry if this seems rude but as stated in preious posts, recovering a stuck vehicle is dangerous and can be fatal if done incorrectly.
Cheers
Pete
Cheers
GUIDELINES FOR SAFE USE OF
VEHICLE RECOVERY STRAPS
(SNATCH STRAPS)
GENERAL INFORMATION
Recovery Straps are usually a nylon strap that can stretch under load and spring back to almost its
original length. The combination of the recovery vehicle pull and the tension in the strap creates a
‘snatching’ effect that can pull a stranded vehicle free from being bogged or unable to move under its
own power. When used in accordance with these guidelines, vehicles may be recovered with minimal
injury risk to people or damage to vehicle equipment.
KEY INFORMATION AND SAFETY RECOMMENDATIONS
· Check the strap and its packaging for the stated Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) of this Strap.
· It is recommended that the minimum breaking strength of the strap should be between 2 and 3
times the vehicle’s gross vehicle mass (GVM);and
· The strap must be suited to the GVM of the lighter of the two vehicles used in the recovery
process.
· Persons intending to use the strap should consider completing a nationally recognised four
wheel drive training course or contact a four wheel drive club for comprehensive advice on the
proper selection and use of the strap.
· The strap must not be used for lifting or conventional towing.
· Persons intending to use the strap must ensure that the strap is not damaged and is in usable
condition.
· The strap’s strength and stretch are reduced when the strap is saturated.
· Something like a recovery damper, heavy bag or blanket must be draped over the strap during
use to reduce any unintentional rebound of the strap.
· While the strap is being used, persons situated outside the motor vehicles involved in the
recovery process must -
(A) be kept at a safe distance (recommended as at least 1.5 times the length of the unstretched
strap) from either of the vehicles involved in the recovery process; and
(never situate themselves within the path of the vehicle performing the recovery.
· ‘WARNING - Always follow product instructions. It is important to correctly attach the motor
vehicle recovery strap to a motor vehicle. A standard tow ball or vehicle tie-down point is not
designed for this purpose and may result in the strap or a vehicle component detaching from a
motor vehicle and striking and seriously injuring or killing a person. Only attach the strap to a
vehicle recovery point or device that is suitably rated for use with the strap. Incorrect use has
previously resulted in serious injury and death.’
IMPORTANT
· Never attempt to recover a vehicle without all the necessary equipment.
· Only use equipment that is properly rated for the particular situation. If in doubt, don’t use it.
· Never exceed the Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) of the strap or the Working Load Limit
(WLL) of shackles.
SELECTING THE RIGHT RECOVERY STRAP
It is very important the correctly rated strap is used. A strap with a ‘too light’ breaking strength may
break under load. A strap with ‘too heavy’ a breaking strength may not stretch properly and more stress
will be placed on the recovery points, possibly causing damage or injury. The Minimum Breaking
Strength (MBS) of the strap should be between 2 and 3 times the Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) of the
‘lighter’ of the two vehicles used in the recovery process. Be aware that the Recovery Strap will be
under greater load if the vehicle is bogged in mud, sand or heavily loaded. If the GVM is not stated on
the identification plate of a vehicle or its registration certificate it could be available from the owner’s
handbook or from the vehicle manufacturer.
KEEPING PEOPLE SAFE
Only the drivers of the stranded and recovery vehicle should be in those vehicles. Nobody else should
be in or on those vehicles. Ensure bystanders stay at least 1.5 times the un-stretched strap length away,
to the side of the line of recovery. NEVER stand between vehicles connected by a Recovery Strap.
Page 2 of 2
SETTING UP THE RECOVERY
Assess the circumstances of the stranded vehicle. If it has bottomed out, clear under the vehicle body
so it rests on its wheels. The recovery vehicle should be placed in line (no more than 10o off the straight
line) with the stranded vehicle, for either a forward or reverse recovery operation. Distance between
vehicles should be 2-3 metres less than the unstretched length of the Recovery Strap. Establish agreed
signals between the vehicle drivers, by radio (preferably), hand signals or vehicle horn.
CONNECTING THE RECOVERY STRAP
Carefully inspect the Recovery Strap to determine that it is in good condition. If the strap is wet, dirty,
cut or chaffed, it will not perform properly. A wet strap may be 20% under strength, a damaged strap
may break. Do not allow the strap to contact hot surfaces or sharp edges.
Roll the strap out between the vehicles, and make sure there are no twists and leave about 2-3 metres
slack between the vehicles. The joining of straps should be avoided wherever possible (Retailers carry
varying lengths of strap). NEVER USE A METAL OBJECT to join straps – if the strap breaks it can
become a missile and cause damage or injury.
Check your vehicle hand book for recovery point locations, or use correctly rated and fitted aftermarket
recovery points. DO NOT CONNECT TO A TOW BALL OR TIE DOWN POINT. Connect Recovery
Strap to recovery point, for any recovery point requiring the use of a shackle to attach the strap, use
only load rated shackles. Only connect to correctly rated recovery points on the vehicles, with only
‘Load Rated’ shackles. Load ratings are marked on shackles as WLL (Working Load Limit). Bow
Shackles are suitable for this purpose and should be rated at least 3.25t. To correctly tighten shackle
pins, screw the pin until it seats then back off about ½ to 1 turn. Over tightening may lead to seized
pins, due to the force exerted during recovery operations. To reduce the risk of vehicle damage and
personal injury, hang a suitable recovery damper blanket, over the Recovery Strap, approximately
midway to restrict the whipping action of a strap should it break.
Last thing – Check all connections and clear bystanders to a safe distance (1.5 times the un-stretched
Recovery Strap length) to the side of the recovery operation and NEVER in the line of recovery.
MAKING THE RECOVERY
1. Before the recovery operation drivers must agree on the point to which the stranded vehicle is to be
recovered and the signal (radio, hand signal or horn blast) when that point is reached.
2. With communications maintained between both vehicles, and Recovery Strap secure, the recovery
vehicle should gently accelerate, taking up the slack and proceeding at no faster than 10-12kph. For
best results the stranded vehicle should be in 1st gear (or 2nd Low), and the driver should assist the
recovery by trying to drive out approximately 3 seconds from when the recovery vehicle moves off.
3. If the vehicle is not recovered on the first attempt, check under the stranded vehicle, again, for
obstacles, reset the slack in the Recovery Strap and try a little more speed by the recovery vehicle.
NOTE: Excessive speed or continual jerking action whilst using a Recovery Strap may result in
damage to the recovery point, chassis and drive line of both vehicles.
4. When the stranded vehicle reaches the agreed point the driver should advise and the recovery
vehicle should stop, then the stranded vehicle should stop.
5. Where proper use of a Recovery Strap is unsuccessful, use an appropriate sized recovery winch.
6. Do not attempt to remove the strap until both vehicles are stationary and secured.
7. NOTE: Recovery Straps require rest periods between use to return to their original length and
capacity. Excessive pulls over a short period of time can cause heat build up and possible failure.
GENERAL CARE AND MAINTENANCE
· Never allow your strap to rub against sharp or hot surfaces.
· Avoid twists & kinks, after washing, and when dry; always coil your strap for storage.
· Clean your strap with warm water and a mild detergent, allowing thorough drying before storage.
Foreign material such as sand and grit can permanently damage the strap fibres.
· Check full length of straps for nicks and cuts before and after use. If damaged, replace it.
· Never use the strap as a lifting sling.
· Inspect shackles for damage; if pins are hard to turn, shackle has been overstressed. Replace it.
·
CAUTION Always follow the Recovery Strap Guidelines for Safe Use CAUTION
Compiled by the Australian 4WD Industry
See bussy here's the rub:
Quote: " Check the strap and its packaging for the stated Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) of this Strap."
No (4wd) recovery item should be marked with it's breaking strain also known as the Guaranteed Breaking Strain (GBS) because the people that buy these items will use it to it's GBS.
All items sold or used in the rigging/construction/mining and ship building industries are rated (by government authorised testing facilities) and have embossed or stamped somewhere on the main body a Safe Working Load (SWL) or a Working Load Limit (WLL). These ratings are a Safety Factor (SF) which is a percentage of the GBS and varies according to use of that item, for instance a wire rope used for holding up a tall structure like a broadcast antennae has a SF of 2. Winch wire and wire rope slings a SF of 5, wire cable used to lift elevators carrying people a SF of 10.
So if you were going to build a lift to carry people and the people and the box was limited to 1 ton and you had only a single cable it would have to (by law) have a cable with a GBS of 10 ton. SWL and WLL are designed to protect against everyday use, abuse and deterioration of the item used, they get weaker with age, just like us.
Now in the 4WD area there are no rules and not a great deal of commonsense (sorry, but true), the industry is mostly at fault selling winches rated (by whom, no-one knows) at say 9500lbs. (4 1/4 Tons) with an 8mm wire cable with a SWL of less than 1 ton. A winch in the rigging industry is rated (legally) at the SWL of of the wire cable used.
Total commonsense, a winch is no stronger than the cable used, how many 4WD'ers now how to lay the wire for their winch on correctly, is it Right Hand Lay (RHL) or Left (LHL), how many use snatch blocks correctly and the right diameter, most damage to winch cable is by using too small a diameter block and reeving the cable through the block the wrong way. How many shackles are attached to recovery points and subjected to sideways forces they were not designed to do.
4WD magazines are the worst they publish methods of recovery that are just plain dangerous and one day they will be held to account in a Coroners court. I wrote to a popular 4WD mag and pointed out what they were publishing was wrong and dangerous. They answered saying I was wrong and their expert had advised them so, the expert was a counter salesman at a 4WD supplier. My qualifications include 40+ years (on and off) in the industries mentioned above, a Class 1 Riggers Ticket which back when I got mine required at least 2 years as a Permitted Rigger, a 12 months TAFE course, a Scaffolders Ticket, a Dogmans Ticket (which allowed riding the hook, back then), and 3 different Crane drivers Tickets and last but not least over 40 years of 4 WDriving and recovery, professionally and private.
There are documents/books/guides Tafe courses people could attend or learn, but most, like the dickhead with his head under the guard in your example, don't give a **** and you know you can't educate idiots, but the rest of us owe it to yourselves and your companions/family to act responsibly with recovery equipment and methods, paramount is COMMONSENSE, Regards Frank.
Thanks Frank for your valuable input. I noticed the article and though it may have been a hardy reminder and to stimulate some thoughts and as you post information that the average lay person would not know. I am one of the lay people. The whole exercise of the post is to educate and make everyone aware of the dangers. If only 1 person who read the post is saved from injury or death it is worth the efforts.
Again thank you for the information
Simple, ban em... Never owned one, never will. Don't want to subject vehicles to that much force when it can be done with a winch or tow at low speed. Take time do it well.
Here's a few more pics that demonstrate some of the potential an incorrectly executed snatch recovery has
Get a good run up
Maybe that didn't go quite so well
Joining the two straps with a bar out of a socket set definitely wasn't the best idea.
No idea whos vehicles these were - photos were taken by a mate who was working there at the time.
Martyn
1998 Defender
2008 Madigan
2010 Cape York
2012 Beadell, Bombs and other Blasts
2014 Centreing the Simpson
VKS-737 mob 7669
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